JCB 8015 arm not lifting

Moog

Moog

Member
Hi,
Our 8015 has lost power to the cab hand controls and hence the arm will not lift. The week before we had attempted to tighten the fanbelt, which is in a very tight spot, so had removed the seat to access back of the engine. I wondered whether i had knocked something in the process to cause our problem.
We’ve checked fuses and the hydraulic oil level.

I’ve been testing the dead man’s handle on the arm control to see if the issue is linked. I’ve traced 2 yellow switch wires into the engine bay, found 2 connectors which both show continuity with the tester. The wires then go into braiding with other wires and I lose the trail. But I can see 2 yellow wires that are at the back of the engine, which I thought could be the same continuous wires, but when I do a continuity test from the last visible connector, 1 wire shows continuity with both terminals, and the other wire beeps and shows 0.4V on both terminals. So im not sure what is going on.

Be grateful if anyone can help with why the arm is not lifting, or tracing the switch wires.

cheers.
 
S

Steve

Well-known member
Sounds like you are already on the right track checking the deadman circuit It is likely that the issue is nearer the seat end, I would start by checking both switches (assuming the 8015 has 2) have open & closed circuits when you raise & lower the lever to get on or off the machine. The switch & the lever may not be aligned with each other.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Sounds like you are already on the right track checking the deadman circuit It is likely that the issue is nearer the seat end, I would start by checking both switches (assuming the 8015 has 2) have open & closed circuits when you raise & lower the lever to get on or off the machine. The switch & the lever may not be aligned with each other.
my 8015 canopy has a dead man switch each side

did you take just the seat out or the base base plate also @Moog?
from memory, the only two yellow wires i recall behind the back plate, behind the seat were to the starter / solenoid
 
Moog

Moog

Member
Thanks guys.
yep, checked the switch opens and closes correctly and engages on plate. I was not aware of another dead man switch on the right hand controls, so I will have a check.

The seat, base plate and back plate was removed. I found the 2 yellow wires on a connector behind the engine, hidden tight to the right hand side (looking from the seat). I managed to get my hand around the corner and disconnect the wires. With being 2 yellow wires I thought it made sense that it would be the switch wires, but the tester results are confusing me.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Thanks guys.
yep, checked the switch opens and closes correctly and engages on plate. I was not aware of another dead man switch on the right hand controls, so I will have a check.

The seat, base plate and back plate was removed. I found the 2 yellow wires on a connector behind the engine, hidden tight to the right hand side (looking from the seat). I managed to get my hand around the corner and disconnect the wires. With being 2 yellow wires I thought it made sense that it would be the switch wires, but the tester results are confusing me.
I have a dead man lever both sides, but only the L/H console raises with the lever .. the R/H console is fixed in the down position ... seem to recall mine being '02 or '04 .. can't recall (@Gunners ??)
had mine apart when the immobiliser died - that was FUN !!
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Moog

Moog

Member
She is lookin good.

think ours is an 04 - i will take a pic of the wires tomorrow and post.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
She is lookin good.

think ours is an 04 - i will take a pic of the wires tomorrow and post.
bought it off a fellow member with 2300 (IIRC) on the clock - think he said he'd had it eleven years ... was a nice little buy and a good square machine
 
Gunners

Gunners

Well-known member
bought it off a fellow member with 2300 (IIRC) on the clock - think he said he'd had it eleven years ... was a nice little buy and a good square machine
Its still got my name on the side! Maybe hoping that one day my YouTube fame might be worth something? Like Indiana Jones' hat :LOL:
Warranty is long void that's for sure, I've had to launder myself through several addresses since I sold this.
I think its a 2002 but its been a while since I last saw it in the metal. And yes, owned since 2010 until 2021. Glad she's reached a grand retirement with you Gra.
 
Lancs Lad

Lancs Lad

Well-known member
Its still got my name on the side! Maybe hoping that one day my YouTube fame might be worth something? Like Indiana Jones' hat :LOL:
Warranty is long void that's for sure, I've had to launder myself through several addresses since I sold this.
I think its a 2002 but its been a while since I last saw it in the metal. And yes, owned since 2010 until 2021. Glad she's reached a grand retirement with you Gra.
Hope your keeping it washed Gra ....

He's only looking after it Olly...it's coming up north at some point 😜
 
T whiting

T whiting

Well-known member
Be careful on jcb's nearly every wire is yellow with little numbers printed on them. I'd find the solenoid that isolated the controls and check for power there and provide it with power to make sure the hydraulic side works then work from there
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Be careful on jcb's nearly every wire is yellow with little numbers printed on them. I'd find the solenoid that isolated the controls and check for power there and provide it with power to make sure the hydraulic side works then work from there
yep -- yellow to yellow, yellow to yellow, etc., etc., as bad as a lot of the 'Drema ... brown to brown, brown to brown, etc., etc. ... bloody hard work tracing anything
 
Moog

Moog

Member
Be careful on jcb's nearly every wire is yellow with little numbers printed on them. I'd find the solenoid that isolated the controls and check for power there and provide it with power to make sure the hydraulic side works then work from there
I did wonder if there were more yellow peril wires. Like my Renault tractor which are all brown! We were told to lift off the cab to access the front solenoid, but not sure we can do that with our tractor loader, plus we are conscious about damaging glass in the cab. But may have to try at some point as we are pretty stumped now.
 
S

Smiffy

Well-known member
I did wonder if there were more yellow peril wires. Like my Renault tractor which are all brown! We were told to lift off the cab to access the front solenoid, but not sure we can do that with our tractor loader, plus we are conscious about damaging glass in the cab. But may have to try at some point as we are pretty stumped now.

I may be wrong but I think the whole can pivots and you can do it by you're. I'm sure I've had the cab tilted on an 8014 before
 
Moog

Moog

Member
Cheers Smiffy, Ive just found a YouTube video of an 8014 with cab tilted back, it is a newer model with less cab floor levers, but I will see if it is possible to tilt ours back. I will add the YouTube link when my son is back from school as not sure how to copy link on this iPad thing!
 
Moog

Moog

Member
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We’ve managed to remove a floor plate to expose a lot of pipes etc. I‘m looking for a solenoid if anyone can direct me. I can see more yellow wires!
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
the book of words ain't very helpful on locations for this but ..
the solenoid is on the servo pressure control block ..
which looks summat like this ...
has two test points for servo and main pressure checking and
a lot of hoses, to/from it
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the schematic is as follows - there'll be a hose from P1, P2 and P3 feeding to it - it not only controls the servo feed, but controls the servo pressure via the relief valve --
it'll also have an accumulator attached to it (2f) -
2a is the solenoid
2e is the servo pressure test point and
2d is the main pressure test point -
2b appears to be the relief/regulating valve ...
there'll be a P and T (return) line from it, to each servo stick base (3 & 4)

think you're going to need to take a few more cover plates off to trace this lot ....
as said - book of words gives little help as to location ..

best chance is trace the P1, P2 & P3 lines to it or
the servo lines fed by it
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sorry I can't be more help with an idea of location
 
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Moog

Moog

Member
Ok, i think I may have found solenoid on the back left under the exhaust. We’ve removed the exhaust to get better access. There are wires going into the box with the hydraulic pipes, unfortunately I still can’t get good access to them, but could anyone confirm this that we are on the right track?
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