I’m not a real welder, mister

[Will_c]

that's the link end sorted, but still leaves the actual thumb pivot to position though

The thumb would pivot around the main bucket pin. When they use an additional pivot point, the thumb doesn’t stay aligned with the bucket cutting edge throughout the full range of motion.

 

[Polecat]

Thanks for all the advice & options guys, keep em coming,
I am going to need more practice & i recon I need a better more modern welder, i can’t really stretch to a R tech model, but I was thinking of one of the SIP models 130 or 160 amp units that does Mig & MMA, looks like Toolstation do em & they have a 2 year warranty.
As for getting a welder in to do it for me, I did ask a couple of guys who said they would do it, but then never turned up or didn’t get back to me, so I thought sod it, I’ll do it myself.
So, I have the flame retardant clothing, gloves & helmet, it’s just a decent machine & skill level i lack.
If only I had the machine that Joe 90 used to hop into when a new skill was called for

 

[Canal Navvy]

What area are you in ? .... quite a few of us do repair work as well as digging (which has been handy this wet winter just nearly gone).
Duty cycle is what makes small cheap welders a pain to work with
Since the E.E.C. mandated "efficient" welders and transformer types couldn't be marketed all affordable sets are made in China , so take your pick. (I'm still favouring Headux for value for money)

 

[Gecko]

You can't call yourself a welder until you've earned the shirt.

 

[Steve]

Possibly worth looking into having welding lessons. Our local college does heavily subsidised evening classes and if you don’t need a qualification at the end it actually works out cheaper than using your own welder.

 

[V8Druid]

You can't call yourself a welder until you've earned the shirt.


View attachment 82209

so true

 

[V8Druid]

The thumb would pivot around the main bucket pin. When they use an additional pivot point, the thumb doesn’t stay aligned with the bucket cutting edge throughout the full range of motion.

agreed ... and a more preferable set up ..... but a lot of faff to take on and off and would probably need fabbing to your own dedicated spec.

 

[Russell]

If only I had the machine that Joe 90 used to hop into when a new skill was called for

There is, its called youtube
Its an excellent source of info.
These are my most recent youtube inspired projects.
Spraying and 90%cabinetry skills came from youtube.

 

[Will_c]

agreed ... and a more preferable set up ..... but a lot of faff to take on and off and would probably need fabbing to your own dedicated spec.

For a 1-ton machine on 25mm pins, it’s not particularly heavy, so installation should be fairly straightforward.

The main difference between machines would probably just be the spacers required for the bosses, depending on the type of quick hitch fitted.

 

[Polecat]

There is, its called youtube
Its an excellent source of info.
These are my most recent youtube inspired projects.
Spraying and 90%cabinetry skills came from youtube.View attachment 82212View attachment 82213

Yep, watched a few, most of which are from guys doing the welding are from across the pond.
So to weld the 10mm thumb mounting plate to the dipper, I was going to cut a groove in the mounting plate straight down the centre so it straddles the long dipper weld that the E10 has, do i bevel the edges of the mounting plate to accept the weld or leave as is.
The rods, 6013 or 7018, these do vary in price greatly depending on brand it seems, any recommendations?
I know the weld will have to be multiple passes, do I start with 6013 then move onto the 7018, if I’m using a 130amp max machine, do I drop the rod size down, say from 3.2mm to 2.5mm to get the penetration.

 

[Polecat]

This is the thumb, well the back of it anyway.

 

[Mogman]

Yep, watched a few, most of which are from guys doing the welding are from across the pond.
So to weld the 10mm thumb mounting plate to the dipper, I was going to cut a groove in the mounting plate straight down the centre so it straddles the long dipper weld that the E10 has, do i bevel the edges of the mounting plate to accept the weld or leave as is.
The rods, 6013 or 7018, these do vary in price greatly depending on brand it seems, any recommendations?
I know the weld will have to be multiple passes, do I start with 6013 then move onto the 7018, if I’m using a 130amp max machine, do I drop the rod size down, say from 3.2mm to 2.5mm to get the penetration.

Where are you based

As for rods just use 2.5 6013 and multiple runs I wouldn’t grind a bevel as will be an arse to fill back in, just build the weld runs up to be thicker than the plate will be plenty strong enough and wire brush clean between each run

As 7018 need a particular way to start welding again as the flux covers the end of the rod so starting can be tiresome if you don’t flick the molten flux off when finishing a run

 

[CPS]

Forget 7018s with your welder. You'd struggle to burn a 3.2mm 7018 rod with 180 amps never mind with 80 amps.

 

[Polecat]

Where are you based

As for rods just use 2.5 6013 and multiple runs I wouldn’t grind a bevel as will be an arse to fill back in, just build the weld runs up to be thicker than the plate will be plenty strong enough and wire brush clean between each run

As 7018 need a particular way to start welding again as the flux covers the end of the rod so starting can be tiresome if you don’t flick the molten flux off when finishing a run

Mansfield, Nottinghamshire

 

[Polecat]

Forget 7018s with your welder. You'd struggle to burn a 3.2mm 7018 rod with 180 amps never mind with 80 amps.

Yeah I’m going to ditch the aldi special 80 amp & get something a little better & up to date, thinking of a 130 - 140amp machine, so maybe I can use it on the various outdoor sockets around the garden

 

[Bri963]

Forget 7018s with your welder. You'd struggle to burn a 3.2mm 7018 rod with 180 amps never mind with 80 amps.

Getting into WeldingWeb territory here, but on a 3.2 the only time I’d run as high as 130 would be the root run of a multi-pass. At 180 you’d be gouging. I’ve run a few kilos of 7018’s on air and oil cooled transformer welders. Not fun, but do-able.

 

[Bri963]

As for rods just use 2.5 6013 and multiple runs I wouldn’t grind a bevel as will be an arse to fill back in, just build the weld runs up to be thicker than the plate will be plenty strong enough and wire brush clean between each run

See my “Aggravation” thread. Bit heftier but same principle.

 

[Bri963]

You can't call yourself a welder until you've earned the shirt.


View attachment 82209

In my case a few years ago, it was “Yes, I know there’s flames coming out of the welder. I’ll deal with it when I’ve done this run”.