Connecting up tilting ditcher bucket

[neil1977]

The access to the block is very restricted so I think I’ll have to drop the axle to enable access to even attempt a repair on it. I’ve a local mechanic assisting me on this job.

by ''bottom side'' I presume you mean where I arrowed ? could well be vee-ed and TIG-ed, as I said .... good TIG man with a nice fine touch'd make a good job of that ...... it's all the sundry hassle that'd go with getting it done is the major grief ... TBH I really can't see why it's split ..... if it were a tapered adaptor in there I'd understand it, but it's a parallel union with a dowty on a mate face, so it's really odd, unless it's had a trauma , but can't see how???? .... over-dogging that adapter'd strip the threads, not burst the port

Druid, I agree. I’ve no idea how this has happened, it’s not in a place to have received any trauma as it’s so well concealed! You’re right it’s not a tapered connection so no extra pressure. I had a helluva job of loosening the union, it seemed ridiculously tight. It’s strange, I can’t go pointing fingers but a Jcb engineer was at the digger last week as I had an issue with the immobiliser and also there was a couple leaks in which they replaced the hoses. Reason I’m saying this is because a couple years ago, the same engineer came out to a fuel pump problem which it turned out to be a crack in the casing of the pump! When I left the machine everything was turned off but next day the radio was on and my battery was flat. He’s an extremely unpleasant young man and he was the same last week! I’m starting to wonder if it’s sabotage or I’ve got a dodgy machine! Too many major issues with it as it’s only done just over 3000 hours

 

[V8Druid]

The access to the block is very restricted so I think I’ll have to drop the axle to enable access to even attempt a repair on it. I’ve a local mechanic assisting me on this job.

Druid, I agree. I’ve no idea how this has happened, it’s not in a place to have received any trauma as it’s so well concealed! You’re right it’s not a tapered connection so no extra pressure. I had a helluva job of loosening the union, it seemed ridiculously tight. It’s strange, I can’t go pointing fingers but a Jcb engineer was at the digger last week as I had an issue with the immobiliser and also there was a couple leaks in which they replaced the hoses. Reason I’m saying this is because a couple years ago, the same engineer came out to a fuel pump problem which it turned out to be a crack in the casing of the pump! When I left the machine everything was turned off but next day the radio was on and my battery was flat. He’s an extremely unpleasant young man and he was the same last week! I’m starting to wonder if it’s sabotage or I’ve got a dodgy machine! Too many major issues with it as it’s only done just over 3000 hours

TBH the only way he'd split that between ports'd be winding in a tapered fitting 'til it wept for mercy ....
so unless he's particularly vindictive, I'd be looking more at a fault in the billet it was machined from in the first place, suddenly manifesting for some unknown reason.
not unreasonable to take the issue up with JCB, especially as it'd just received attention from their 'fitter' and showed no issues prior to that
a crack like that has to have a cause - either the billet or someone taking the piss, as the installed/as found fitting is NOT a tapered fitting ... certainly worth pushing for 'someone' to take a look at it ... 3k on the clock is sod all in the scheme of things and even greater usage is not likely to split a valve manifold/chest.

 

[neil1977]

Sorry to bother you all again, but what would be the approx operating temperature of the the valve block that’s cracked? See above for details. Belzona rep wanting to know.

Thanks again!

 

[V8Druid]

Sorry to bother you all again, but what would be the approx operating temperature of the the valve block that’s cracked? See above for details. Belzona rep wanting to know.

Thanks again!

would've thought circa 70C would be a reasonable estimate for a max op temp. .... My hydrema runs 50-60 C after a day's digging ... never seen it above that ... but i don't work it that hard generally and it's usually between 40 and 50C most days that I use it for any prolonged period .... @Hydremaduck might give you a better figure as he'd run his at op. temp. all day, most days, I'd have thought

 

[Hydremaduck]

... @Hydremaduck might give you a better figure as he'd run his at op. temp. all day, most days, I'd have thought

Only just seen this.

Sorry, cannot give you any idea at all of what temp the oil will get too. Water she runs at mid to high 80's and hyd oil guage is green into blue? iirc when shes had a busy day. I know you don't want to touch pipework with the palm of your hand if that helps at all.