Vinpetrol
Well-known member
Can I do this without dropping the hydraulic oil and removing the pump completely ? Also want to change the crank seal and hydraulic seal while I’m in about it . Any advice much appreciated
Case cx130 replacing doughnut drive between hydraulic pump and engine .
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
the enormous supply pipe from tank to pump'll take some wrestling I'd've thought
is the crank seal lipped, requiring the rear bearing cap (and sometimes crank) removal / dropping
which hydraulic seal are you referring to Vin ?? front of the pump ?? (which'll still be full of oil? )
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
Yes but I don’t actually need to change it as it’s engine oil I have a wee drip from the bell housing , that’s probably why the rubber has given up . I was only going to change hydraulic seal as I thought might be wise when I’m in there . Looks like a pump off job then buddy !the enormous supply pipe from tank to pump'll take some wrestling I'd've thought
is the crank seal lipped, requiring the rear bearing cap (and sometimes crank) removal / dropping
which hydraulic seal are you referring to Vin ?? front of the pump ?? (which'll still be full of oil? )
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
I don’t think the crank case seal is a big job . I seem to remember the fitter damaging the one that’s in at the moment when we refitted the pump previouslythe enormous supply pipe from tank to pump'll take some wrestling I'd've thought
is the crank seal lipped, requiring the rear bearing cap (and sometimes crank) removal / dropping
which hydraulic seal are you referring to Vin ?? front of the pump ?? (which'll still be full of oil? )
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
not necessarily Vin ... depends how long that supply python is and how much room you have to go wrestling it in -- gonna have to have enough room to withdraw the pump from the drive plate and if you have that you should be able to get at the crank seal with the bell housing/pump mount plate removed
.. but never looked in the guts 'cupboard' of a CX130 so simply guessing
CPS
Well-known member
Yow might get enough slack to get the pump back far enough
CPS
Well-known member
Ive done JS for sure, do t recall it being a big job.... bur its a good while since i have
M
Monkeybusiness
Well-known member
Just change the engine oil for EP90 or grease….
D
DaveDCB
Well-known member
Could put a few raw eggs in it.. that works on coolant.. same kinda thing? Or was it a pair of mogmans tights? I can’t remember….
Giles
Well-known member
The tights he has over his head while removing atms round the country or his social pair go with his heels?
D
DaveDCB
Well-known member
Honestly didn’t know there was a difference!!The tights he has over his head while removing atms round the country or his social pair go with his heels?
Regy53
I like cake
I very much doubt you can do this in situ
D
DaveDCB
Well-known member
Were you replying to @Giles there?
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
I drained all the oil out and removed the pump then took the fly wheel out . The seal on the crankshaft looks fine so will be staying put . The rubber drive is well fecked though
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
so where the hell is the oil coming from?
odd this is the only bolt with oil pooling in it ?
what's the back of the flywheel look like Vin ?
odd this is the only bolt with oil pooling in it ?
what's the back of the flywheel look like Vin ?
Bri963
Well-known member
The oil will not have caused the coupling failure, for one thing there isn’t enough in there. I suspect, looking at the sealant round the rear crank seal, that the crank palm was worn when the new seal was fitted, or whoever worked on it bullied the new seal on and caused a bit of damage. Whatever, while it’s off I’d fit a new seal, but be a bit more careful than the last bloke. Without knowing the architecture, it might make fitting the seal a bit easier if you lower the sump a bit on its bolts. Be sequential or you’ll end up with another leak round the sump joint.
As for the coupling, the drive may not have been correctly positioned on the splines. Too far forward and it’ll take the end float out of the crankshaft and pump, too far back and the doughnut won’t drive across the full face and you’ll get premature wear. I worked on a Cat 315 that hadn’t been lined up properly (too far back on the splines) and the coupling was chewed up at under 1000 hrs. You need to do a bit of measuring and working out with a straight edge and steel ruler.
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
The fitter that done it first time round was a bit rough to say the least . Nothing got cleaned then and I think a lot of this residual oil is from prior to that seal change . The residue on the frame definitely has been there since then . What you’re seeing is as I started with a bit of brake cleaner before I remembered to take the pic
I will be cleaning it all up before refitting .
Still swithering about fitting the seal though
I will be cleaning it all up before refitting . Still swithering about fitting the seal though
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
You’re right there Bri the oil definitley didn’t do for the donut . It was bone dry . I will defintley check the distances though as that’s a good shout . From memory I think the donut is more rounded edges on one side and I’m sure that would affect the contact .
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
I never took a pic of the back of the flywheel but I will when I’m back up thereso where the hell is the oil coming from?
odd this is the only bolt with oil pooling in it ?
what's the back of the flywheel look like Vin ?
View attachment 61717
Footer block 1