Benford TV1200 drive problem

[Steve Tivey]

Sorry mate didn’t explain myself very well, Druid was on the ball! Without the engine running! Put the tow valve in tow, turn the steering

Ok done that

Steering doesn't actually work without power?

Tried turning the wheel with front brake undone. Dry not even a drip

 

[V8Druid]

Ok done that

Steering doesn't actually work without power?

Tried turning the wheel with front brake undone. Dry not even a drip

the orbital valve will still flow/push oil out of the open line though ... or should

 

[Steve Tivey]

the orbital valve will still flow/push oil out of the open line though ... or should

Turning left steering clicks around without moving the roller. turn right feels solid.
It has sunk into the ground a little but with power the drum steers normally

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

the orbital valve will still flow/push oil out of the open line though ... or should

Exactly

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

Turning left steering clicks around without moving the roller. turn right feels solid.
It has sunk into the ground a little but with power the drum steers normally

Ok with engine power it proves the orbital works so is getting oil to steer with, but if I remember rightly, when applying the tow valve and turning the steering it released the brakes, you say you had the valve in tow when running and hoses off drums both poured oil! So if you move the valve to drive it labours the engine but won’t drive?

 

[V8Druid]

Ok with engine power it proves the orbital works so is getting oil to steer with, but if I remember rightly, when applying the tow valve and turning the steering it released the brakes, you say you had the valve in tow when running and hoses off drums both poured oil! So if you move the valve to drive it labours the engine but won’t drive?

" with engine running ... on Tow setting both front and back (hoses) had a steady but weak? stream certainly not high pressure" not sounding great though @Mick-the-fitter ??

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

No when in tow the brakes should be able to be powered off, sounds like there is a internal leaking tow valve!

 

[Steve Tivey]

No when in tow the brakes should be able to be powered off, sounds like there is a internal leaking tow valve!

The tow/drive block does not does not necessarily pull the engine down sometimes it does when moved towards (not necessarily all the way to the drive stop it is random and intermittent anywhere between tow and drive., which suggests to me something is broken?

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

The tow/drive block does not does not necessarily pull the engine down sometimes it does when moved towards (not necessarily all the way to the drive stop it is random and intermittent anywhere between tow and drive., which suggests to me something is broken?

Correct, the valve has a fault internally, I think those valves are only o ring sealed!

 

[Steve Tivey]

Correct, the valve has a fault internally, I think those valves are only o ring sealed!

What do you advise, I could take it off and get it to the company who re-built the main pump or do you have an idea?

When you say valve do you mean the whole tow block or just the valve on the top?

We get an intermittent reaction when we move between tow and drive that presumably has some form of mechanical gate might that be faulty.

 

[Steve Tivey]

Hi Mick

Just in case it helps we tried to bypass the tow block.

We joined the 2 brake feeds and the feed from the pump solenoid that goes in the top of the tow block. It pulled the engine down and did not release the brakes.

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

In theory that’s how it works, so there could be a brake hub problem! Plates all stuck together! How long did you say it was parked up?

 

[Steve Tivey]

In theory that’s how it works, so there could be a brake hub problem! Plates all stuck together! How long did you say it was parked up?

Nearly 3 years now outdoors

Is it possible to dismantle the brakes and blank off the hydraulics, to prove this? there are no electronics that say brakes disengaged go?

Then refurb and replace the brakes?

"If the tow block is faulty" What if we took off and blanked the brake pipes at the hubs what would that do?

A year ago we did tow it with the engine off.

What is the position of the brakes when the engine is switched off or is there a parking position.

But that doesn't explain the original sudden stop, unless the original problem was the main pump (now rebuilt) and the brakes problem has occurred later due to standing so long.

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

A few reasons, the condition of the hydraulic oil in the brake hubs could when stood long enough cause the cylinders to get stuck, the brakes are pressure fed off so on when no engine, they could be stripped and cleaned and re sealed, they are sprung so be careful when dismantling.

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

On the ends of the motors are a series off m6 cap head bolts, if you get some long m6 screws and plain nuts, remove two cap heads, put the long ones in with nuts, tighten to hold plate, remove all the cap head bolts, hold the long bolt with a spanner and undo the nut a bit at a time, one side at a time, photos as you go!

 

[V8Druid]

On the ends of the motors are a series off m6 cap head bolts, if you get some long m6 screws and plain nuts, remove two cap heads, put the long ones in with nuts, tighten to hold plate, remove all the cap head bolts, hold the long bolt with a spanner and undo the nut a bit at a time, one side at a time, photos as you go!

pretty sure there is a thread on this from some time ago @Mick-the-fitter

 

[V8Druid]

don't think this is it https://www.planttalk.co.uk/threads/new-to-forum.2928/#post-91278 ... can recall your description of the six socket heads from before

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

don't think this is it https://www.planttalk.co.uk/threads/new-to-forum.2928/#post-91278 ... can recall your description of the six socket heads from before

Yes similar set up on a dumper drive motor, the roller is more basic

 

[V8Druid]

don't think this is it https://www.planttalk.co.uk/threads/new-to-forum.2928/#post-91278 ... can recall your description of the six socket heads from before

got it https://www.planttalk.co.uk/threads/stothert-pitt-txr120-leaking-hydraulics.3228/page-2

Put the whole thing in a press or big vice, holding the square plate across top and bottom and on the outside hold from top to bottom between the 6 bolts, find yourself some threaded rod I think M8 and some nuts, remove two cap head bolts and replace with two 150 mm threaded rods, run the nuts down to hold in place whilst undoing the other bolts, fit two more threaded rods 150 mm Wind each nut off a little at a time, you only need to create a gap big enough to remove the sealing o ring, and fit a new one, make sure it’s stuck in with some grease before bolting back together, if you join the two drive hoses together and put the pipe back on the brak you can test it before it all goes back together!

 

[Steve Tivey]

got it https://www.planttalk.co.uk/threads/stothert-pitt-txr120-leaking-hydraulics.3228/page-2

Just so I am clear

The engine is not running should the brakes be on or off

The engine is running (tick over) should the brakes be on or off

The revs are on and forward is selected guessing the brakes should be off

The hydraulics apply the brakes and springs take them of or Visa-versa