Working off plans?

[Left hooker]

we do 560mm from conc to FFL, insulation buggers things up as it doesn't work brick. our recipe is from conc:

inside skin
block flat ( across the foot)110
block flat bedded up (lengthways)125
beam 150
insulation 100
screed 75

outside skin
block
block or 3 engineers


no need to lean mix fill cav and you have 235 under beams to fall sewer.

We get dolly blocks down here 100x100mm or 150x100mm to bring outer walls up to level to match course work on inner skin
This is the typical build up

 

[V8Druid]

We get dolly blocks down here 100x100mm or 150x100mm to bring outer walls up to level to match course work on inner skin
This is the typical build up

View attachment 25888

and if short of Dolly blocks ------ last week's unsold pasties

 

[Smiffy]

We get dolly blocks down here 100x100mm or 150x100mm to bring outer walls up to level to match course work on inner skin
This is the typical build up

View attachment 25888

Most sights I've been on use concrete "slips" under the beams to align everything they are available in 50mm 75mm 100mm and 125mm so can adjust the beams to wherever you want them

 

[Left hooker]

and if short of Dolly blocks ------ last week's unsold pasties

Yeah them bloody god awful ginsters

 

[hiluxman]

Brickie will get over it.

Brickie says plasterer will get over it.

Plasterer say sparkie will sort it, sparkie says painter will sort it.

 

[Lancs Lad]

Brickie will get over it.

Brickie says plasterer will get over it.

Plasterer say sparkie will sort it, sparkie says painter will sort it.

Sparkie whacks one strike in and pegs it...if u know u know

 

[fred]

We get dolly blocks down here 100x100mm or 150x100mm to bring outer walls up to level to match course work on inner skin
This is the typical build up

View attachment 25888

works for render but not for face brickwork. I like the vertical dpc you add as well, we use them often to get around high ground conditions.

 

[fred]

Most sights I've been on use concrete "slips" under the beams to align everything they are available in 50mm 75mm 100mm and 125mm so can adjust the beams to wherever you want them

unfortunately they don't help. slip bricks are purely for getting the outside ring of blocks sitting on the beams level as beams don't work brick either!

 

[Smiffy]

unfortunately they don't help. slip bricks are purely for getting the outside ring of blocks sitting on the beams level as beams don't work brick either!

Sorry I don't understand the last part of that ??

 

[T whiting]

Sorry I don't understand the last part of that ??

@fred is talking about filling under the blocks as you need 40mm slips to fill in under the blocks between the beams. I have seen slip blocks for under the beams to make it work or you could get the sthil saw out

 

[Smiffy]

@fred is talking about filling under the blocks as you need 40mm slips to fill in under the blocks between the beams. I have seen slip blocks for under the beams to make it work or you could get the sthil saw out

That's what I was meaning I think. I have seen a course of blocks laid then slips laid on top then the beams on top of that to make levels line up.
As oposed to the usual use of slips between the beams.

 

[fred]

That's what I was meaning I think. I have seen a course of blocks laid then slips laid on top then the beams on top of that to make levels line up.
As oposed to the usual use of slips between the beams.

slip bricks are supplied with B and B floors as infill blocks to take the outer course only as they are the height of the beam shoulder. sitting the beams on a slip brick would be treble the effort of just bedding up a single block which has to be laid anyway. Laser the corners to make sure the height is correct then string and run the line.

much better to get the build to FFL correct before work starts.

Been to a few places over the years with 2100 or 2200 ceiling heights as the groundworkers had no clue about working out the correct FFL buildup and the mistake was taken out of room height as ridge heights cant be increased without new planning in a lot of cases.

 

[Giles]

slip bricks are supplied with B and B floors as infill blocks to take the outer course only as they are the height of the beam shoulder. sitting the beams on a slip brick would be treble the effort of just bedding up a single block which has to be laid anyway. Laser the corners to make sure the height is correct then string and run the line.

much better to get the build to FFL correct before work starts.

Been to a few places over the years with 2100 or 2200 ceiling heights as the groundworkers had no clue about working out the correct FFL buildup and the mistake was taken out of room height as ridge heights cant be increased without new planning in a lot of cases.

We’ve used 40mm slips in walls before when things have changed and you need to make up something you can’t achieve with 240/100/65 options of block or commons

brickies love raiding the slip block pack when it turns up, we’ve a pack in yard handy when landscaping and doing steps etc

 

[Routy56]

Guys this is a really interesting thread from which I’ve learnt some stuff from y’all.
Thanks to @Russell for starting it off
My question is do any of you have a recommendation for creating simple plans?
I can easily scribble something down on paper, but was thinking about an easy to use CAD Application
Have got to sort out a simple sewer connection soon for an elderly neighbour with an old septic tank soon.
Think that I need to be able to supply good looking drawings to him and utility companies as required.
Any recommendations?

 

[V8Druid]

Guys this is a really interesting thread from which I’ve learnt some stuff from y’all.
Thanks to @Russell for starting it off
My question is do any of you have a recommendation for creating simple plans?
I can easily scribble something down on paper, but was thinking about an easy to use CAD Application
Have got to sort out a simple sewer connection soon for an elderly neighbour with an old septic tank soon.
Think that I need to be able to supply good looking drawings to him and utility companies as required.
Any recommendations?

Josh has been sending me info. recently using SketchUp .. an online CAD system .... results look very 'pro' ..... don't know what it's like to use ... 11years since I last opened or used my A-Cad prog. and that was a bitch for infrequent users

 

[Routy56]

Josh has been sending me info. recently using SketchUp .. an online CAD system .... results look very 'pro' ..... don't know what it's like to use ... 11years since I last opened or used my A-Cad prog. and that was a bitch for infrequent users

Thanks Gra - yes I had a dabble with SketchUp a few years ago. May be the way to go
Just need to here from someone who actually use it or some fink else

 

[V8Druid]

Thanks Gra - yes I had a dabble with SketchUp a few years ago. May be the way to go
Just need to here from someone who actually use it or some fink else

Josh has never used it before and producing very presentable isometrics with it .... looking at converting his loft and struggling to juggle in a stair flight. I used to design and make a lot of steel stair flights and has had me trying to juggle one into the available space ..... a real uphill task, but think i have it sussed ..... eventually

 

[Rob65]

I use Microsoft Visio. I have tried several different CAD systems and find them difficult to understand .

Visio is like Paint in that you can click and drag your mouse to draw a line but it has a ‘snap to grid’ so the lines come out horizontal / vertical when required. It also shows the coordinates of the ends so you can draw more accurately than you can just by eye. You can easily add dimensions. The big thing for me is that you can just select lines and copy and paste them in the same way as you do in day a word document.

The list price for Visio is quite high but there are cheep versions out there on the internet if you go looking for them.

 

[DaveDCB]

All of this is nonsense when you start working with reclaimed Cheshire brick.. nothing lined up!!