Canal Navvy
Well-known member
Back in the day we did the bases for the new travelling crane up on Salisbury Plain when the challenger tanks came in..... 8 cubic metres per base.... and that was in solid chalk!
Canal Navvy
Well-known member
Hole in the middle of the ply so you can get a good spot for the shims
Left hooker
Well-known member
Take ply off a few hours after the pour
Ply is only there to square the bolts to the line and to stop them sinking in concrete
Left hooker
Well-known member
Never shuttered any I've done
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
Does no one here find it easier to chemical fix the barns down rather than mess about trying to get studs to stay where you put them
Left hooker
Well-known member
No good if concrete is out slightly need bolts so you can pack with shims to level frame up
Quattromike
Well member-known
That's what we do, get the steel up in the right place and drill and fix chem anchor. Only time it's an issue is when someone has poured crap concrete. You rely on the resin bonding with the concrete, if the surface the resin bonds to pulls off it won't work.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
have drill fixed plenty with long body wedge anchors ... just have to drill carefully on depth .... and check required adjustment needed for levels first
Long expanding bodies are also good too
not reliant on ground workers getting it right then
Long expanding bodies are also good too
not reliant on ground workers getting it right then
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
We put pads in the engineer out to mark dead centre of posts
Plywood template to drill holes
The posts up and bolts in
Saves drilling through beam that is suspended and is brilliantly accurate
Danny
Well-known member
Im currently building the same system to what Ollie built ive got 41 to build for a pile cap i got the local wood merchant to cut all the ply once you get into the rythm they dont take long to make
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
only as good as the setting out ..... have had to slot holes in stanchions many a time ... despite it being 'set out right'
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
admit that if set out well, it's very much quicker to just drop the stanchions onto the pads and bolts, especially if you've been around with the level and set the shims on first too
.... beauty of a drilled bolt down is it can be sat on the slab and easily set out on a flat surface .... have done quite a few like it ... assemble the rafters and stanchions in one - lift into place and fix on prepared setting out points ... slower than cast in bolts .... if you DON'T count the time spent faffing getting them right in the first place ... lot quicker if you do .... and 'tain't gonna blow away, once up and braced if you ain't gotta do the pre-cast bolts, then fine .. if you have drill fix every time
Left hooker
Well-known member
These give you a little movementonly as good as the setting out ..... have had to slot holes in stanchions many a time ... despite it being 'set out right'
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
only as good as the setting out ..... have had to slot holes in stanchions many a time ... despite it being 'set out right'
Haha fingers crossed that as it's GPS set out from the same cad drawing that the barn is built from
Any discrepancies will translate across
And if the concrete is put in with a Lazer then hopefully it all goes better than trying to wiggle those springy studs into place without getting Ur fingers pinched
D
DaveDCB
Well-known member
This is all I have ever done for shed bases, don’t see any point in doing anything more unless ground levels are being built up or they are for cabins which I’ll shutter them out of the ground then.
F
fred
Well-known member
do they have to be square ? Could you use plastic chamber rings ?
Danny
Well-known member
just sticking with the structural engineers spec nice idea of using rising sections though
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
aye and still have had to slot base plates Stu ....
V
Volbar1
Member
We do as DaveDCB does, only ever use chemical bolts if there's a fcuk up and have to cut the holding down bolts. We first shim up bases to level (about 25mm) stand columns, fix eaves beams, gable end rafters, work our way out fixing rafters and using a purlin either side to hold rafters in place, then install all purlins, line and level all columns then grout in.
TiltyShaun
Well-known member
This man has it....I just prefer a theodolite rather than the string line!!
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