Best way to remove footing?

doobin

doobin

Well-known member
Been asked to remove a concrete footing 600 wide and 800 deep. Needs to be redug to 1.1m apparently. That's after they pull the new extension down :ROFLMAO: What's the best way to achieve this without making a f****ng mess? It's on wet clay just to complicate things.

All I can think of is to have the 1.7t to the side with a pecker, and have the 2.7t straddling the footing switching between ripper and 600 bucket to get it out and pull the trench right in one pass?
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
Also, can anyone recommend a breaker that would work reasonably on a 1.2t through to a 2.7t?
 
Grahams

Grahams

Don't complain - suggest what's better
I'm no builder, but couldn't you just underpin it to save demolishing the extension?
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
Also, can anyone recommend a breaker that would work reasonably on a 1.2t through to a 2.7t?
Attachment solutions ltd - Dr Pecker. The bollocks he is.

I would personally be hitting it with the largest breaker you can on a digger straddling the trench, then pull out with same machine.
 
F

fred

Well-known member
Hire a machine in with a pecker. Don’t want to be shaking the s**t out your own kit 👍
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
I'm no builder, but couldn't you just underpin it to save demolishing the extension?
Apparently it's been condemmed for a multitude of reasons, the footings are just the ice on the cake
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
Hire a machine in with a pecker. Don’t want to be shaking the s**t out your own kit 👍
I don't use one a lot, but I don't like hiring either, it's hassle. Is it really that bad?
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
Apparently it's been condemmed for a multitude of reasons, the footings are just the ice on the cake
Other thing I would suggest depending on the top level of the footings, Get a Mini DTH rig in, drill through the existing footing down to say 2m, then form a ring beam over the footing?
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
The whole site level is getting changed. I'm just there as digger and driver.
 
K

Komatsu

Well-known member
I don't use one a lot, but I don't like hiring either, it's hassle. Is it really that bad?
Breakers are a lot better now a days so I’d just hire myself, also, don’t go balls deep with the point straight away, you’ll snap the point if your not careful, just work your way in with it to form a bit of a space, so the next bit has somewhere to go, however, I would take it home every nite, there to easy to lift off site, and there an expensive thing.
 
Gunners

Gunners

Well-known member
Use a bigger digger! A 700 should do the trick 😆 From my experience, footings arent too bad to remove, if you can get down beside them but you are trying to keep the ground intact so it will be a bit harder. Sounds like a sit there and break it up job. Slow, boring, noisy but it will work. Hiring a breaker is hard work as the hire place never have one that fits your machine. Farnham Tool Hire near me have bobcats so they might be worth a try for you.
I own a breaker and it can sit in the shed for 2 years, then do 1hr's work and back to the shed. If I didn't have such an awkward digger, hiring one would be the way forward.
If you do decide to buy, speak to Dr Pecker at Attachment Solutions. He does reconditioned ones too and for the frequency you'll use it, maybe a good route to go?
 
Canal Navvy

Canal Navvy

Well-known member
Sounds like one of jobs that you'll wish you hadn't taken on.

Can't see being able to keep to a 600 trench. Personally I'd dig as deep as I could get either side with my six inch cable bucket and then get in with my breaker and go for big chunks.

I've got a Montabert on a quick hitch, machine is on 2,600 hours and there is wear but not horrendous. I grease the breaker every two hours and do the front end of the machine too.

Also worth remembering to warm the breaker steel up in cold weather.

I wonder how you'd price this, suspect I'd go too low 🙄
 
F

fred

Well-known member
Think I’d rag out a corner for some working space and hire in a 5 tonner with pecker if you can get it in.

out of curiosity did it not get inspected by building control as it was built ?

best extension I saw built by a Pakistani gentleman had a steel top manhole in the kitchen with the whole row of houses running through it. Building control walked off the job.
 
Stubota86

Stubota86

Well-known member
Last time I had to dig a footing out, similar size to yours, I hired a Doosan DX55 with decent size breaker on it. Dug the sides out a bit and went at it from different angles, it was still hard going even on the 5 tonner although if the stuff your breaking isn’t that old it probably won’t be fully hardened
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
Trouble is they want to put a footing back in the same place, only deeper!
 
B

Brendan

Well-known member
Trouble is they want to put a footing back in the same place, only deeper!
Make them aware that it's more than likely going to end up a good 300mm wider.
Would have thought largest machine you can get in there with a breaker on, on day rate is your best hope
 
Antony Holmes

Antony Holmes

Well-known member
i would think just a strip found so may not be to bad to break out just back fill the area you need to start on and so no straddling trenches and break out and dig down to the new level as you go if the first builder was too tight to dig to correct (minimum 1 m deep subject to building control )in the first place the concrete may not be the best any way
 
Canal Navvy

Canal Navvy

Well-known member
As a point of interest, I would rather see a good hard, well batched concrete. On soft materials the point just drills a hole or spalls the material out. On really hard concrete it is easier to create a line of weakness and get deep cracks 😀
 
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