'Nother one altering their posts.....It does go on the blade though. Snug fit up top and a bloody great M24 bolt through the bottoms to pinch it tight.
Like Honey says, some sort of blade tray ..... and he's right ... clean the crap off first Boyo, for even better penetration ... no heat wasted burning the oxides offputting something like a tractor bucket on the blade to carry things around?
If it needs to be strong wouldn't you be better grinding the metal a bit cleaner before migging it?
'Nother one altering their posts
Like Honey says, some sort of blade tray ..... and he's right ... clean the crap off first Boyo, for even better penetration ... no heat wasted burning the oxides off![]()
5, 12 or 20% Doob ...... never seen a 15% mix ??Relax gents, all the edges were prepped and vee’dused 15% mix gas for the root weld too, she was running hot
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nope you're right ..... SGS don't do a 20% 'heavy' .... 5 & 15 % only .... BOC was Light, Universal and HeavySgs. Think it’s 15, will check tomorrow.
In an ideal world I’d have used virgin PFC, but had the design in my head and a window to make it, plus loads of UC lying about.
nice lil' winch there BoyoHere’s the next bit of it...
Wasn’t horrendous. Sub 1k with a full radio remote kit and Kevlar rope. Rated for 20,00bs. It’s mainly for assisted tree fells so I can have the remote with me and the saw and keep total control.nice lil' winch there Boyo.... bet that wasn't cheap
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handy idea that... What size machine is it going to be fitted on?Wasn’t horrendous. Sub 1k with a full radio remote kit and Kevlar rope. Rated for 20,00bs. It’s mainly for assisted tree fells so I can have the remote with me and the saw and keep total control.
The blade extends deeper than the digger blade. Using RSCfor the clamp system means I have somewhere to mount spade lugs if they turn out to be needed, but as the blade tray you see pictured will stop it sinking into the ground too much that might be enough. I’ll weld the rear of the winch tray to the 12mm plate that forms the blade, as well as the vertical channel on the front. The front of the winch tray I’ll tie back with two side plates running all the way to the bottom of the front vertical channels.
The top box section is a grab bar for lifting it on and off the blade. I’ll also incorporate some kind of guard above the winch to prevent bashing it.
that was a very good priceWasn’t horrendous. Sub 1k with a full radio remote kit and Kevlar rope. Rated for 20,00bs. It’s mainly for assisted tree fells so I can have the remote with me and the saw and keep total control.
The blade extends deeper than the digger blade. Using RSCfor the clamp system means I have somewhere to mount spade lugs if they turn out to be needed, but as the blade tray you see pictured will stop it sinking into the ground too much that might be enough. I’ll weld the rear of the winch tray to the 12mm plate that forms the blade, as well as the vertical channel on the front. The front of the winch tray I’ll tie back with two side plates running all the way to the bottom of the front vertical channels.
The top box section is a grab bar for lifting it on and off the blade. I’ll also incorporate some kind of guard above the winch to prevent bashing it.
Yes cetop included plus pressure reducer.that was a very good price..... presumably that includes an open centre cetop 3 for the hydraulic remote control? ...... how're you going to plumb the supply to be constant whilst you're away from the seat?
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grab circuit is on a lockable switch then ??........ gonna tee into the pipes at the boom base or run longer hoses from the dipper end ?Yes cetop included plus pressure reducer.
For the amount I'll use it, I'll just disconnect the grab, plug in the winch and set the flow to constant, leaving the seat lever down. Naughty I know...
Badger- It's going on a Bobcat E27. No reason it shouldn't handle the pull if built correctly- A Major only weighs two and a bit tonne, and they were the tractor of choice for a 10t Boughton.
makes sense ...... would take some doing to be able to leave them connected to a 'down stairs' circuitYup can lock aux 1. Will just position dipper near and use them. WInching is enough of a faff with running out a cable, plugging in a pair of pipes isn't going to slow me down much more.
If I teed into them at the boom base (did consider it) I'd still have to be constantly plugging/unplugging to move any timber
makes sense ...... would take some doing to be able to leave them connected to a 'down stairs' circuit.... presumably if you find the need for some spades they'd be swing down and just be fixed in position? ...