V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
blade fork carrier ? 
...... perhaps
...... perhaps
doobin
Well-known member
You fell into my trap nope
It does go on the blade though. Snug fit up top and a bloody great M24 bolt through the bottoms to pinch it tight.
nopeIt does go on the blade though. Snug fit up top and a bloody great M24 bolt through the bottoms to pinch it tight.
honey_badger
Well-known member
putting something like a tractor bucket on the blade to carry things around?
If it needs to be strong wouldn't you be better grinding the metal a bit cleaner before migging it?
If it needs to be strong wouldn't you be better grinding the metal a bit cleaner before migging it?
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
'Nother one altering their posts
Like Honey says, some sort of blade tray ..... and he's right ... clean the crap off first Boyo, for even better penetration ... no heat wasted burning the oxides off
honey_badger
Well-known member
'Nother one altering their posts
Like Honey says, some sort of blade tray ..... and he's right ... clean the crap off first Boyo, for even better penetration ... no heat wasted burning the oxides off
I'm partial to a bit of stick myself, mainly because I haven't learned how to set the mig up properly yet, and I've no worry with cleaning for a quick repair although i try to clean as principle. Welds look good though. My other advice would be wrap the corners but don't know if that piece is structural or not.
doobin
Well-known member
Relax gents, all the edges were prepped and vee’d 
used 15% mix gas for the root weld too, she was running hot 
used 15% mix gas for the root weld too, she was running hot
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
5, 12 or 20% Doob ...... never seen a 15% mix ??Relax gents, all the edges were prepped and vee’d
... who's gas was that?
doobin
Well-known member
Sgs. Think it’s 15, will check tomorrow.
In an ideal world I’d have used virgin PFC, but had the design in my head and a window to make it, plus loads of UC lying about.
In an ideal world I’d have used virgin PFC, but had the design in my head and a window to make it, plus loads of UC lying about.
doobin
Well-known member
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
nope you're right ..... SGS don't do a 20% 'heavy' .... 5 & 15 % only .... BOC was Light, Universal and Heavy
.... what you're using there is Rolled Steel Channel Doob, with the old skool tapered flanges ... not Universal Column (which has parallel flanges) and yeh the newer ISO PFC would've been/is easier to use.
so what you need a winch plate for ...... got some banks to work on or some big timber to fell ??
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
doobin
Well-known member
Wasn’t horrendous. Sub 1k with a full radio remote kit and Kevlar rope. Rated for 20,00bs. It’s mainly for assisted tree fells so I can have the remote with me and the saw and keep total control.nice lil' winch there Boyo
The blade extends deeper than the digger blade. Using RSC
for the clamp system means I have somewhere to mount spade lugs if they turn out to be needed, but as the blade tray you see pictured will stop it sinking into the ground too much that might be enough. I’ll weld the rear of the winch tray to the 12mm plate that forms the blade, as well as the vertical channel on the front. The front of the winch tray I’ll tie back with two side plates running all the way to the bottom of the front vertical channels.The top box section is a grab bar for lifting it on and off the blade. I’ll also incorporate some kind of guard above the winch to prevent bashing it.
honey_badger
Well-known member
handy idea that... What size machine is it going to be fitted on?Wasn’t horrendous. Sub 1k with a full radio remote kit and Kevlar rope. Rated for 20,00bs. It’s mainly for assisted tree fells so I can have the remote with me and the saw and keep total control.
The blade extends deeper than the digger blade. Using RSC
The top box section is a grab bar for lifting it on and off the blade. I’ll also incorporate some kind of guard above the winch to prevent bashing it.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
that was a very good priceWasn’t horrendous. Sub 1k with a full radio remote kit and Kevlar rope. Rated for 20,00bs. It’s mainly for assisted tree fells so I can have the remote with me and the saw and keep total control.
The blade extends deeper than the digger blade. Using RSC
The top box section is a grab bar for lifting it on and off the blade. I’ll also incorporate some kind of guard above the winch to prevent bashing it.
..... presumably that includes an open centre cetop 3 for the hydraulic remote control? ...... how're you going to plumb the supply to be constant whilst you're away from the seat?
doobin
Well-known member
Yes cetop included plus pressure reducer.that was a very good price
For the amount I'll use it, I'll just disconnect the grab, plug in the winch and set the flow to constant, leaving the seat lever down. Naughty I know...
Badger- It's going on a Bobcat E27. No reason it shouldn't handle the pull if built correctly- A Major only weighs two and a bit tonne, and they were the tractor of choice for a 10t Boughton.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
grab circuit is on a lockable switch then ??........ gonna tee into the pipes at the boom base or run longer hoses from the dipper end ?
doobin
Well-known member
Yup can lock aux 1. Will just position dipper near and use them. WInching is enough of a faff with running out a cable, plugging in a pair of pipes isn't going to slow me down much more.
If I teed into them at the boom base (did consider it) I'd still have to be constantly plugging/unplugging to move any timber
If I teed into them at the boom base (did consider it) I'd still have to be constantly plugging/unplugging to move any timber
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
makes sense ...... would take some doing to be able to leave them connected to a 'down stairs' circuit
.... presumably if you find the need for some spades they'd be swing down and just be fixed in position? ...
doobin
Well-known member
makes sense ...... would take some doing to be able to leave them connected to a 'down stairs' circuit
That's the idea, but can't see that I'll need them. The winch tray itself pusing into the soil will act as a spade of sorts, there's 8" of clamped on blade below the depth of the digger blade too.
If I find that it doesn't need that much flow to run effectively, I will be tempted to tee into the blade circuit with a tap.
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