Ram seal replacement

diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
My brother has got a log splitter with a ram thats leaking. He can't see how to split the ram. There's just a threaded hole.
IMG-20190505-WA0002.jpg
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
The gland may push back and a metal ring come out to let it out?
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
I take it you haven't come across this type before. He words "Chinese crap"
He wondered if the threaded hole was for a grub screw to release something.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
The gland may push back and a metal ring come out to let it out?
does look that way Aiden (y) .... there's a definite ring around it BTLs :rolleyes: ..... I've never come across one though, so summat for the memory banks ;) :cool:
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
looking at that pic again Dylan, I'd say that the threaded hole should have a short M6(?) in it with a large mud wing type washer to prevent the end cap going back on its own accidentally .... can see the witness mark where the washer was ;) and where it overlapped the edge of the cylinder wall :unsure:

IMG-20190505-WA0002.jpg
 
Mogman

Mogman

What man as done, man can do, what never has,maybe
The gland may push back and a metal ring come out to let it out?
Looks like that to me too knock back the gland block 1/4” the you should see a metal ring inside the tube flick it out and bobs your uncle
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
looking at that pic again Dylan, I'd say that the threaded hole should have a short M6(?) in it with a large mud wing type washer to prevent the end cap going back on its own accidentally .... can see the witness mark where the washer was ;) and where it overlapped the edge of the cylinder wall :unsure:

View attachment 6474
Looks like that to me too knock back the gland block 1/4” the you should see a metal ring inside the tube flick it out and bobs your uncle
Yea like druid says the washer likely stopped it from going back to far when working. Have done a few like that, mostly smaller ones
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
Thanks guys. Yes Graham i had noticed that, where a washer had been
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
Well hes actually started on it and you all were right but he still can't get the ring out. I will see if i can copy and paste our conversation
Cheers Dylan
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Well hes actually started on it and you all were right but he still can't get the ring out. I will see if i can copy and paste our conversation
Cheers Dylan
has he relieved any pressure in the cylinder's return side Dylan :unsure: ... like taking the pipe off? ;) ... that end cap'll probably take some knocking back in if it's been in there a while ... only needs a couple of mil, then give the retainer ring a gentle tapping all round to loosen it ... should come out sweet as then (y)
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
There’s no cutaway for a screw driver, the cap isn’t threaded. I’ve used the sticking out bolt to turn the plate, it does go in or out when turned. I’ve smacked the hell out of it. The end plate is about an inch thick! It’s as if there’s something stopping it going in. The shaft turns, the base plate turns and the circlip can be move. It’s the pushing it into the cylinder that’s impossible. I thought of using the machine to pull it in but the pressure would push out not draw in. My neighbour who does cars up, can’t think of anything. I’m going to put some oil seal leak stopper in the hydraulic fluid to see if the stops the leak, but at 30ton pressure I’m not that hopeful.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
There’s no cutaway for a screw driver, the cap isn’t threaded. I’ve used the sticking out bolt to turn the plate, it does go in or out when turned. I’ve smacked the hell out of it. The end plate is about an inch thick! It’s as if there’s something stopping it going in. The shaft turns, the base plate turns and the circlip can be move. It’s the pushing it into the cylinder that’s impossible. I thought of using the machine to pull it in but the pressure would push out not draw in. My neighbour who does cars up, can’t think of anything. I’m going to put some oil seal leak stopper in the hydraulic fluid to see if the stops the leak, but at 30ton pressure I’m not that hopeful.

curious ... how easily will the end cap move around in the cylinder Dylan ... wonder if there's any castellations or location slots behind it and have to find 'the sweet spot', fore it'll go in?? :unsure:... if the ring is moving easily it should come out easily too ...... once you have the clearance :rolleyes:
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
Good thought Graham. Would there be any reason for that. Will let him know
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Good thought Graham. Would there be any reason for that. Will let him know
prevent accidental withdrawal of the end cap by getting summat stuck between the rod end and the cap ?? :rolleyes::unsure: ... the little 6mm bolt and washer'd stop it rotating of it's own accord and accidentally finding that 'sweet spot' too perhaps
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
I drained the ram, so no return pressure. The plate moves relatively easily (a hammer using a drift on the M6 bolt I put in the threaded hole. I can see the back of the plate through the inlet port, I’ve tapped the plate round 360degrees, no castlletations/marks/grooves/slots. I can’t get the clearance to get the circlip out. I’ve tried to force feeler gauges between the plate and circlip, there’s no where near enough space to manipulate the circlip out. I wondered whether muck had been force between the plate and cylinder, it’s clean. I’m going to borrow an endoscope to see if that sheds any light.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I drained the ram, so no return pressure. The plate moves relatively easily (a hammer using a drift on the M6 bolt I put in the threaded hole. I can see the back of the plate through the inlet port, I’ve tapped the plate round 360degrees, no castlletations/marks/grooves/slots. I can’t get the clearance to get the circlip out. I’ve tried to force feeler gauges between the plate and circlip, there’s no where near enough space to manipulate the circlip out. I wondered whether muck had been force between the plate and cylinder, it’s clean. I’m going to borrow an endoscope to see if that sheds any light.
only other thought is a detent pin that'd have to be aligned with a small slot in the end plate :unsure:.... have you seen every mil of the circumference of the end cap??
 
Mogman

Mogman

What man as done, man can do, what never has,maybe
Have you taken the fitting out completely just in case it is stopping the gland from dropping back into the cylinder?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Have you taken the fitting out completely just in case it is stopping the gland from dropping back into the cylinder?
can't imagine the adapter is into the cylinder Mog :unsure:..... the nipple is usually welded to the outer surface of the cylinder wall :rolleyes: ... would be real unusual for the cylinder port to be bored to the nipple size :confused:o_O
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
I've sent you pictures on Facebook messenger. It was the only way i could do it. You might be able to put them on the forum
 
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