Trax’s Volvo A25c

[Pond digger]

Some may be aware that I bought one of Trax’s dump trucks at auction a while back. Well she’s being getting some exercise over the past few days, leading soil from the local canal flood bank. She’s quite a tidy beast, and it goes like stink, BUT she’s being very temperamental at engaging drive, and I just wondered if anyone would like to hazard a guess at what could be wrong? Moving the shift lever to drive (or reverse) makes quite an abrupt rumble noise, and sometimes she’ll move, but more often..... nothing!

Anyway, I’m blaming Rory: I knew i should’ve gone for the A30, but he persuading me the A25 would be a better buy.

Thanks

 

[JD450A]

Some may be aware that I bought one of Trax’s dump trucks at auction a while back. Well she’s being getting some exercise over the past few days, leading soil from the local canal flood bank. She’s quite a tidy beast, and it goes like stink, BUT she’s being very temperamental at engaging drive, and I just wondered if anyone would like to hazard a guess at what could be wrong? Moving the shift lever to drive (or reverse) makes quite an abrupt rumble noise, and sometimes she’ll move, but more often..... nothing!

Anyway, I’m blaming Rory: I knew i should’ve gone for the A30, but he persuading me the A25 would be a better buy.

Thanks

Which truck number is it, and does it have the Contonics Unit in the cab headlining.

At a guess the potentiometer (probably got the name wrong) on the left hand side of the engine close to the cab has got out of adjustment slightly. They DO NOT like being shifted from F - R whilst revving and the Potentiometer is there to stop it from going into gear and causing damage, very easy to adjust with spanners . I presume you are also in low range not High?


I managed to avoid the dumpers for the most part... @Conor spent more time on the bastard things

 

[CPS]

Start with the basics.. check trans oil level. Check it while running.

And as Rory says check the potentiometer also (very impressed he knew about this... and even got the right name) there will be two marks on it, the have to line up with one at high idle and the other at low. Adjust the rod between the injector pump and the potentiometer. I you post a pic Il direct you better!

But check oil first

 

[Pond digger]

Which truck number is it, and does it have the Contonics Unit in the cab headlining.

At a guess the potentiometer (probably got the name wrong) on the left hand side of the engine close to the cab has got out of adjustment slightly. They DO NOT like being shifted from F - R whilst revving and the Potentiometer is there to stop it from going into gear and causing damage, very easy to adjust with spanners . I presume you are also in low range not High?


I managed to avoid the dumpers for the most part... @Conor spent more time on the bastard things

Aye it does have some weird digital thingy in the head console Rory, I haven’t a clue what a Contonics unit is though.

Cheers

 

[Pond digger]

Start with the basics.. check trans oil level. Check it while running.

And as Rory says check the potentiometer also (very impressed he knew about this... and even got the right name) there will be two marks on it, the have to line up with one at high idle and the other at low. Adjust the rod between the injector pump and the potentiometer. I you post a pic Il direct you better!

But check oil first

Thanks Aiden, I’ll have a look.

 

[Pond digger]

Which truck number is it, and does it have the Contonics Unit in the cab headlining.

At a guess the potentiometer (probably got the name wrong) on the left hand side of the engine close to the cab has got out of adjustment slightly. They DO NOT like being shifted from F - R whilst revving and the Potentiometer is there to stop it from going into gear and causing damage, very easy to adjust with spanners . I presume you are also in low range not High?


I managed to avoid the dumpers for the most part... @Conor spent more time on the bastard things

Oooo, I am in hi, is that a problem?

 

[JD450A]

And as Rory says check the potentiometer also (very impressed he knew about this... and even got the right name) there will be two marks on it, the have to line up with one at high idle and the other at low. Adjust the rod between the injector pump and the potentiometer. I you post a pic Il direct you better!

I learned it on one of my breif spells on a A25B..... Long story short Speed and Power on the Haul Road cause the rod to, Ahem Fall off..... Of course this did'nt matter until I reached the Turning area and selected Reverse, to which it refused..... Blocking the only turning area on the silt lagoon and causing all the other wankers to have to reverse all the way around I did'nt often get asked to drive a dumper... Don't know why

Contronics unit will if I remember rightly tell you engine Rev's etc.... I seem to think it's possible to work out if the potentiometer is out via comparing the contonics to the dash. (That might be the A30C's though). I seem to recall you had truck 15, which was one of the best of the bunch!

I'd personally only use High for Road work. Might well be part of the issue. Make sure you stop before changing Ranges! They DO NOT like doing it on the move. Also Tim is likely to Haunt and Beat you from the otherside for using it in High On Site.... I can vouch that he gets quite grumpy over it (See Story of A25B)

 

[V8Druid]

.................. (See Story of A25B)

Where Rory ??? here or CEF ?

what other forum do you know of, where this sort of info. miraculously appears in such a short space of time Chris

 

[Conor]

I managed to avoid the dumpers for the most part... @Conor spent more time on the bastard things

Rory has given more help here than I can, my “main” truck was no. 20, no passenger seat and radio would only pick up classic gold.... good days

 

[Pond digger]

Well I reckon you chaps are on the right line re the potentiometer thingy. I haven’t messed with the thing yet, but I discovered that if I hooked my foot under the accelerator pedal, and lifted it slightly, it caused a subtle drop in revs that is just enough to make the difference. She hasn’t failed to engage drive once since I’ve been doing that little trick.

Thanks

 

[Mark]

Any wear in the throttle pedal, happens to ours when there’s wear or return spring is broken.

 

[CPS]

Any wear in the throttle pedal, happens to ours when there’s wear or return spring is broken.

Yep I'd say a spring will soon it

 

[JD450A]

There you go see. Driver issues as normal

 

[Pond digger]

I could do with an operator’s manual; will I need to take out a mortgage?

 

[JD450A]

I could do with an operator’s manual; will I need to take out a mortgage?

What do you need that for

 

[Pond digger]

What do you need that for

You’re right, I guess it didn’t do you any good.

 

[JD450A]

You’re right, I guess it didn’t do you any good.

All joking aside, theres not much to them that is worth having a Operators manual for. You've obviously mastered the gears, steering wheel and pedals... oh and the tip lever.

Handy things to know are the Diff Locks and Drive combinations... a 6x6 is standard Front and Mid Axle Permanent drive, engaging 6x6 (one of the flicky air switches to the side by the gears) kicks in the back axle... this can be done on the move without issue BUT do not do so if the mid axle is spinning free/fast as you WILL tear the propshaft in Two.

The other one of the air switches locks the Front Diff, This is seriously useful if traversing slick but firm ground (E.G grassland after rain, or Clay) as it gives a bit more go to the tractive unit and will encourage it to pull the back rather than the back end pushing the front.

Button between the pedals is the 6X6 + DIFFS button.... can be engaged on the move but do not do so with tires spinning.

Pedal to the Left is Engine or gearbox retarder/brake. Likewise there is a automatic switch on the left of the Dash.

 

[Pond digger]

All joking aside, theres not much to them that is worth having a Operators manual for. You've obviously mastered the gears, steering wheel and pedals... oh and the tip lever.

Handy things to know are the Diff Locks and Drive combinations... a 6x6 is standard Front and Mid Axle Permanent drive, engaging 6x6 (one of the flicky air switches to the side by the gears) kicks in the back axle... this can be done on the move without issue BUT do not do so if the mid axle is spinning free/fast as you WILL tear the propshaft in Two.

The other one of the air switches locks the Front Diff, This is seriously useful if traversing slick but firm ground (E.G grassland after rain, or Clay) as it gives a bit more go to the tractive unit and will encourage it to pull the back rather than the back end pushing the front.

Button between the pedals is the 6X6 + DIFFS button.... can be engaged on the move but do not do so with tires spinning.

Pedal to the Left is Engine or gearbox retarder/brake. Likewise there is a automatic switch on the left of the Dash.

Thanks for that R.

 

[James]

I could do with an operator’s manual; will I need to take out a mortgage?

I have a full a25c workshop manual at home from when I ran one. If you need any info shout away and I can send it onto you.
Under the throttle there is an “anti gas” pneumatic strut that kicks the throttle back out when you go for a gear change. It’s probably seizing ( happened to mine), stopping the pedal returning fully but you can unbolt it and live without fairly easily

 

[Pond digger]

I have a full a25c workshop manual at home from when I ran one. If you need any info shout away and I can send it onto you.
Under the throttle there is an “anti gas” pneumatic strut that kicks the throttle back out when you go for a gear change. It’s probably seizing ( happened to mine), stopping the pedal returning fully but you can unbolt it and live without fairly easily

That’s a kind offer, and some useful info.

Many thanks