Thwaites 3 tonne dumper

[Agrimax]

Have the above to sort out a few repairs on. It has the Deutz F3L1011 engine and manual gearbox. Not currently charging the battery but at present there is no battery light as in it's not there,but I haven't looked closely at the thing yet.
Can anybody tell me should there be a separate control box/module or whatever in this this system to go along with the alternator? It's just that there are 4 or 5 wires hanging to the left of the crank pulley where there is what looks like a flat mounting plate that may have had a module on it(like a CDI unit for eg)and I can't think what it may have been for.
Can't find a shop manual for this model with the Deutz engine.Just says 3 Tonne dumper on the side (original decals) and not 7000 and the id plate is long gone!!
Thanks...

 

[V8Druid]

Have the above to sort out a few repairs on. It has the Deutz F3L1011 engine and manual gearbox. Not currently charging the battery but at present there is no battery light as in it's not there,but I haven't looked closely at the thing yet.
Can anybody tell me should there be a separate control box/module or whatever in this this system to go along with the alternator? It's just that there are 4 or 5 wires hanging to the left of the crank pulley where there is what looks like a flat mounting plate that may have had a module on it(like a CDI unit for eg)and I can't think what it may have been for.
Can't find a shop manual for this model with the Deutz engine.Just says 3 Tonne dumper on the side (original decals) and not 7000 and the id plate is long gone!!
Thanks...

some alternators had separate remote regulator packs -- all my cranes did, but were 24v -- part no 1861668

 

[Agrimax]

Thanks V8. Judging by the extra wires with spade terminals, it's my suspicion there may have been something like that fitted at a time.

 

[V8Druid]

Thanks V8. Judging by the extra wires with spade terminals, it's my suspicion there may have been something like that fitted at a time.

what breed is the alternator? ..

 

[Agrimax]

Haven't got in there yet... Changing oils,filters amongst a lot of other things today. Maybe tomorrow. Won't know til I get the fan cover etc off to access the alt.(It's the type that's inside the fan housing)

 

[Sledgehammer]

Have the above to sort out a few repairs on. It has the Deutz F3L1011 engine and manual gearbox. Not currently charging the battery but at present there is no battery light as in it's not there,but I haven't looked closely at the thing yet.
Can anybody tell me should there be a separate control box/module or whatever in this this system to go along with the alternator? It's just that there are 4 or 5 wires hanging to the left of the crank pulley where there is what looks like a flat mounting plate that may have had a module on it(like a CDI unit for eg)and I can't think what it may have been for.
Can't find a shop manual for this model with the Deutz engine.Just says 3 Tonne dumper on the side (original decals) and not 7000 and the id plate is long gone!!
Thanks...

I have recently carried out extensive work on our Benford Terex 3000 dumper, which had numerous electrical problems upon acquisition. Here are a few things to check: First start at the battery isolation switch. Switches tend to suffer from internal corrosion and may not carry a current load. An easy check is to bypass the switch by moving the cable to the incoming side. This is for short-term checking and not recommended for a permanent fix. Think safety. Next, check the power in and out of the ignition switch as they also suffer from internal corrosion. Check the resettable fuses, which can also be problematic. There is a row of relays inside the dash box; my advice is to change them due to corrosion on the contact faces, which causes intermittent faults. You should have a red light on the dash from the LED on the PC board. No red LED indicates no power going to the alternator, meaning there will be no output. You could try supplying temporary power to the alternator connection and then checking if you are getting a charging voltage of 13/14 volts at the output terminal. There are wiring schematics in the operating manual for most Benford Terex dumpers that you will find. Good luck.

 

[Agrimax]

Thanks Sledgehammer. A friend bought this thing at an online auction...unseen of course! Wish he had left it for someone else... I haven't had time to properly investigate the electrics yet although it does start on the key, but doesn't charge which is unsurprising given the state of the wiring.
Have all oils and filters changed and now the hyd oil tank is leaking and will have to come off to be welded. It didn't like me pressure washing the outside of it.
The brake line to the rear axle has been broken for some time and a blanking plug fitted to the rear port on the master cylinder although it'll still brake the rear through the driveshafts, being 4wd. I'm guessing the brake reservoir should have mineral oil in it instead of the present DOT3 although the front brakes do still work. Might be better left alone as it is.
Needs a steering column and wheel too. Present wheel is welded on to the shaft,top bearing isn't there and the top of the column is rotted away thus the whole lot lifts up out.
Maybe get the timing belt changed tomorrow.... It's not going to be such a cheap little purchase by the time it's in usable condition methinks!!

 

[Sledgehammer]

Changing the timing belt is very straight forward but you’d best get the locking pins for the crank and cam shafts. The Deutz engines are extremely reliable and great starters. There is a fuel filter inside the lift pump that is worth cleaning. It will most likely be Newage 215 axles with inboard brakes. Use 32 or 46 grade hydraulic oil not brake fluid. A new steering wheel is not expensive and rebuild kits are available for the steering control pump.

 

[V8Druid]

Changing the timing belt is very straight forward but you’d best get the locking pins for the crank and cam shafts. The Deutz engines are extremely reliable and great starters. There is a fuel filter inside the lift pump that is worth cleaning. It will most likely be Newage 215 axles with inboard brakes. Use 32 or 46 grade hydraulic oil not brake fluid. A new steering wheel is not expensive and rebuild kits are available for the steering control pump.

absolute doddle with the locking pins two plugs to remove in the engine block to insert them and lock the timing - slack the tensioner and remove the belt

when rebuilding the orbitals they're very accurately timed and if you get it wrong they rapidly become a motor and break your wrists

 

[Agrimax]

Thanks folks. Timing belt changed. Made one timing pin from a glow plug that was the correct thread and just needed shortened to the specs of a diagram but couldn't find another or anything else with that m10x1.0 thread so just marked the crank gear and good to go...
This lift pump doesn't open but the gauze in the sediment bowl was that bad it wouldn't clean so it's removed and an inline filter is now also fitted and the main filter had mostly water in it. Don't know how it was running at all...
The steering motor is fine but the column is next for repair or more likely replacement...
On the charging system,it's sorted. Just added a new battery light and rejoined a few wires and it works. There is no module or external regulator.The mounting plate I mentioned is just to hold a multiplug in place.

 

[Sledgehammer]

Thanks folks. Timing belt changed. Made one timing pin from a glow plug that was the correct thread and just needed shortened to the specs of a diagram but couldn't find another or anything else with that m10x1.0 thread so just marked the crank gear and good to go...
This lift pump doesn't open but the gauze in the sediment bowl was that bad it wouldn't clean so it's removed and an inline filter is now also fitted and the main filter had mostly water in it. Don't know how it was running at all...
The steering motor is fine but the column is next for repair or more likely replacement...
On the charging system,it's sorted. Just added a new battery light and rejoined a few wires and it works. There is no module or external regulator.The mounting plate I mentioned is just to hold a multiplug in place.

It just a long bolt with a 7mm hex head that keeps the cap on it is sealed with an o ring that hangs up on the thread when you undo it. Just keep loosening it until it comes out. Then gently lever the cap and it will come out with the sealing ring. There is a very fine gauze filter attached that is usually clogged up with gunge. Wash it out and refit. Don’t over tighten the bolt. You’ll find by cleaning your engine will start a run much better and. Good luck.