B
Badgerman
New member
After purchasing a non running 2005 Lewis Badger 2 with usual hydrostatic transmission problems I took it on myself to work out the ins and outs of this pain in the arse drive! Mainly cos the quotes for having a look at it were ridiculous! So im sorry it may be long winded, I have now a full breakdown of the Badger hydraulics I now share, I hope it helps someone in the future.
1 Low pressure loop. Starting at the charge pump, A hose runs to the steering motor and onto the back of the machine to the backhoe spool, Note the backhoe spool has a 172 Bar pressure relief valve in it accessed from underneath the rear top slide rail. The loop then runs to the front loader spool in the cab, After the loop runs to the oil cooler and then on to a port on the oil filter in the tank. On the other side of the filter the loop continues to the front main pump, Hose at the bottom just behind the 2 large closed loop pipes. Pressure testing for the low pressure loop can be done at the tee on the exit of charge pump and the port at entry into the main pump. The security valve at the front of the machine laying on the chassis is powered by a switch on the handbrake and seat, Normally open valve connected to main pump, So no power to valve then no drive! To note if you have the 3 port jack hammer accessory on the back, This is inline between the steering motor and the back spool, Inlet and one side to jack hammer, Other side to oil tank, I assume if working at back with hammer and something goes wrong you can dump pressure direct to the tank.
2. Closed loop, Fairly self explanatory! Front pump directional swash plate connected to the motor directional swash plate for forward and reverse. 2 large hoses at bottom of pump to sides of the drive motor A port to A port and B port to B port. Bleeding may be needed to be done every now and then by cracking open the 2 rear ports on the motor! If major work is done on the main pump or a large hose is changed, Refill loop by raising front of machine and undo the 2 32mm caps at the front top of the main pump, Remove spring and pistons and refill both sides.
3. 4WD hydraulic circuit, A prime culprit if everything else such as loader, backhoe and steering are working! A small hose on top of the main pump runs to a tee piece situated on top of the 4WD diverter valve, Situated just behind the steering motor, From the tee piece it continues to the motor. If this hose is faulty IT WILL NOT LEAK! This is a suction hose, It will suck in air! If faulty it will not drive and will be stuck in 4WD when started! This circuit keeps closed the relief valves in the motor to stop the closed circuit dumping fluid into the tank, Also controls flow in the diverter valve for drop box control. When running correctly this circuit can be pressure tested at the allen bolt just below the connection of the hose to the main pump, Should be 25 Bar.
I do hope this sheds some light on a good little machine for anyone who's got one and having problems!
1 Low pressure loop. Starting at the charge pump, A hose runs to the steering motor and onto the back of the machine to the backhoe spool, Note the backhoe spool has a 172 Bar pressure relief valve in it accessed from underneath the rear top slide rail. The loop then runs to the front loader spool in the cab, After the loop runs to the oil cooler and then on to a port on the oil filter in the tank. On the other side of the filter the loop continues to the front main pump, Hose at the bottom just behind the 2 large closed loop pipes. Pressure testing for the low pressure loop can be done at the tee on the exit of charge pump and the port at entry into the main pump. The security valve at the front of the machine laying on the chassis is powered by a switch on the handbrake and seat, Normally open valve connected to main pump, So no power to valve then no drive! To note if you have the 3 port jack hammer accessory on the back, This is inline between the steering motor and the back spool, Inlet and one side to jack hammer, Other side to oil tank, I assume if working at back with hammer and something goes wrong you can dump pressure direct to the tank.
2. Closed loop, Fairly self explanatory! Front pump directional swash plate connected to the motor directional swash plate for forward and reverse. 2 large hoses at bottom of pump to sides of the drive motor A port to A port and B port to B port. Bleeding may be needed to be done every now and then by cracking open the 2 rear ports on the motor! If major work is done on the main pump or a large hose is changed, Refill loop by raising front of machine and undo the 2 32mm caps at the front top of the main pump, Remove spring and pistons and refill both sides.
3. 4WD hydraulic circuit, A prime culprit if everything else such as loader, backhoe and steering are working! A small hose on top of the main pump runs to a tee piece situated on top of the 4WD diverter valve, Situated just behind the steering motor, From the tee piece it continues to the motor. If this hose is faulty IT WILL NOT LEAK! This is a suction hose, It will suck in air! If faulty it will not drive and will be stuck in 4WD when started! This circuit keeps closed the relief valves in the motor to stop the closed circuit dumping fluid into the tank, Also controls flow in the diverter valve for drop box control. When running correctly this circuit can be pressure tested at the allen bolt just below the connection of the hose to the main pump, Should be 25 Bar.
I do hope this sheds some light on a good little machine for anyone who's got one and having problems!
