Help!... 3CX wiring nightmare.

A

Al_1977

Member
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[/url]

Evening all,

Need some advise pls, this looks like a right nightmare.

I wanted to get the old beast out to do a bit of graft this morning, she's not been started for a while so with a fully charged battery, turned the ignition to pre-heat for approx. 25seconds - then tried to crank her, I heard the starter motor engage; but no cranking. When I tried turning the key again, I could hear a relay (or something) activating behind the side-dash, but no main dash (pre-ignition) warning light, no starter motor engage.

First port of call was the fuses on the battery terminal, which all buzzed out for continuity on the multimeter... then checked the blade fuses in the side dash, no issues there.

As all appeared to die after the pre-warm, we were drawn back to the battery box to double check that fuse block... and when the terminal was removed - all became clear. There was no heat in the plastic so this was the startup that was obviously the final straw of something that had been brewing since before I bought it (this was the first time I'd taken the battery off to charge it).

It's a 1999 project 12... thoughts on best way to repair? 😵‍💫
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
54893689452_dfe9b47f3f_b.jpg
[/url]

Evening all,

Need some advise pls, this looks like a right nightmare.

I wanted to get the old beast out to do a bit of graft this morning, she's not been started for a while so with a fully charged battery, turned the ignition to pre-heat for approx. 25seconds - then tried to crank her, I heard the starter motor engage; but no cranking. When I tried turning the key again, I could hear a relay (or something) activating behind the side-dash, but no main dash (pre-ignition) warning light, no starter motor engage.

First port of call was the fuses on the battery terminal, which all buzzed out for continuity on the multimeter... then checked the blade fuses in the side dash, no issues there.

As all appeared to die after the pre-warm, we were drawn back to the battery box to double check that fuse block... and when the terminal was removed - all became clear. There was no heat in the plastic so this was the startup that was obviously the final straw of something that had been brewing since before I bought it (this was the first time I'd taken the battery off to charge it).

It's a 1999 project 12... thoughts on best way to repair? 😵‍💫
for starters (excuse the pun) I'd do my best to determine which wires went where, whilst there're a few strands attached still - assume that's a relay box?? assuming that is a relay box, fit suitable spades to the wire ends and try a new box ?
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
As above - identify everything it's doing.
Each wire has a number printed on it that you can lookup in the manual to find its function

1762082903563.png


Looking at the manual, I'd guess this it the lump you are holding?

1762083001621.png


While it would be nice to keep the fuse layout original (for future trouble shooting) - if it's just 4x fuses, an aftermarket box would do.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
As above - identify everything it's doing.
Each wire has a number printed on it that you can lookup in the manual to find its function

View attachment 77014

Looking at the manual, I'd guess this it the lump you are holding?

View attachment 77015

While it would be nice to keep the fuse layout original (for future trouble shooting) - if it's just 4x fuses, an aftermarket box would do.
weird set up
 
A

Al_1977

Member
54895441722_9901b761bc_z.jpg


Yes bunch of fuses on the battery positive terminal, pretty heavy duty... will it be ok to use spade connectors to 50a fuse?

I'll try a dealer tomorrow... but I suspect even if block is available for an old machine - getting the plug connector which isn't on a loom could be tricky. :unsure:
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
You'd need the big 3/8" (10mm) spade terminals and you certainly wouldn't want to rely on the cheap 'dimple' crimp tool.

Looks like the fusebox is common across many models and should be widely available
JCB seem to be in the process of pimping their website again, so naturally you can't see any parts

 
A

Al_1977

Member
You'd need the big 3/8" (10mm) spade terminals and you certainly wouldn't want to rely on the cheap 'dimple' crimp tool.

Looks like the fusebox is common across many models and should be widely available
JCB seem to be in the process of pimping their website again, so naturally you can't see any parts


Much appreciated sir. 🙏
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
what a totally crap idea
Probably better than running heavy cables into the cab and back out again (to the regular fuse box).
Mounting it off the battery certainly exposes the wires/contacts to any acid fumes, but I think the failure mode of this one is a poorly supported cable bundle.
 
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