Engine oils

B

Brendan

Well-known member
Looking to do all my own servicing and it turns out all the machines want different engine oil

Dx10z 10w-30 or 15w-40 API cj4 or better

Htd5 10w-30 JCB multigrade api cc/sf

8026 15w-40 JCB extreme acea e5:b3:A3 api ch4/sj

Slanetrac 15w40 acea B2 B4 API cf4

None of it is available at Halfords or any close motorfactor but is there any single oil that could just be used for all of them
 
Routy56

Routy56

Well-known member
CPS said:
Go for a good grade 15w 40 and they will be fine.
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Second that (y)
Use Shell Rimula 15w40 on all 4 of my machines. They are all older diesel machines and we change the oil and filters at least once a year or every 250 hours. Have now trained my 14 year old grandson, Jack, to do it without oil running down his arm :ROFLMAO:
 
Routy56

Routy56

Well-known member
So while on the subject of engine oils, I really do recommend a more viscous oil for older engines. I changed over the oil in my old Mondeo Mk 4 TDCi project car from 5w30 to 5w40. And this was because having owned 4 x LR Discoveries in the past I still follow "LR Time" on Youtube. This German couple rebuild Discos and other stuff - you guys will love their videos 😎
Here's a link to engine oil upgrades Upgrade from 5w30 to 5w40 oil
Useful information for us guys that service their won stuff - good luck ;)
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
1766027920928.png


Understanding some of those spec's helps a lot.
SJ is a petrol engine spec. "S" identifies it as petrol, J is the revision. The spec started with "SA" which is now described as "not suitable for engines built after 1930". The second letter incremented a letter each time the spec improved.

The same goes for the diesel oils the start with a C. So your CC oil's spec is very old (1970's). So a CD is better than a CC and a CJ is better than a CH.

Almost always, they are backward compatible, (but not forward) - where this falls apart is when the oil is a semi or full synthetic and is just too light for an old school engine.

I think CH is the minimum spec for an engine with a DPF

As for the word "multigrade", all those oils are multigrade. A 10W oil is a single grade (suitable for a narrow temp range - perfect for the front forks of your motorbike or a gearbox). Anything with two numbers (0W-40, 20W-50 etc) is a multigrade.
 

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Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
Gecko said:
View attachment 78209

Understanding some of those spec's helps a lot.
SJ is a petrol engine spec. "S" identifies it as petrol, J is the revision. The spec started with "SA" which is now described as "not suitable for engines built after 1930". The second letter incremented a letter each time the spec improved.

The same goes for the diesel oils the start with a C. So your CC oil's spec is very old (1970's). So a CD is better than a CC and a CJ is better than a CH.

Almost always, they are backward compatible, (but not forward) - where this falls apart is when the oil is a semi or full synthetic and is just too light for an old school engine.

I think CH is the minimum spec for an engine with a DPF

As for the word "multigrade", all those oils are multigrade. A 10W oil is a single grade (suitable for a narrow temp range - perfect for the front forks of your motorbike or a gearbox). Anything with two numbers (0W-40, 20W-50 etc) is a multigrade.
Click to expand...
Some good information there Gecko. Just to add, if the grade is the same as original spec, you can safely use a semi- or synthetic in older engines.

Also for interest,,depending on the application a mono grade can be used over a wide temp. range. For example, off the top of my head and without SIS in front of me, Cat Hydo 10w can be used over the ambient range -30C up to +40C. Might be a few degrees out on that one. Some of the transmission oils have a surprisingly wide range as well.
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
Bri963 said:
Just to add, if the grade is the same as original spec, you can safely use a semi- or synthetic in older engines.
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My last road bike spec'd a full mineral oil, but because I was in the industry at the time (all parts & accessories at cost price), I was able to run the best (most expensive). When I ran a full synthetic oil (correct grade), the the gear shift was horrible and the piston slap was excessive. I was very happy to swap back to a full mineral oil.
Bri963 said:
Cat Hydo 10w can be used over the ambient range -30C up to +40C.
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Yes, sure - a gearbox could run over a similar range. By "wide temp range", I was thinking more of a sub-zero start followed by a turbo-glowing run down the autobahn.
A 5000hp loco that doesn't get turned off for weeks at a time would be better on a mono-grade.
 
Furniss

Furniss

Well-known member
Wacker is due a service - last year local parts suppliers recommended womac e11 10-40 and iirc it was stupidly priced so much so i wouldn't want to use it in all the kit.
need some more so might order 40l of
Shell Rimula R4 10-40 seems cheaper and would do the lot yes ?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Furniss said:
Wacker is due a service - last year local parts suppliers recommended womac e11 10-40 and iirc it was stupidly priced so much so i wouldn't want to use it in all the kit.
need some more so might order 40l of
Shell Rimula R4 10-40 seems cheaper and would do the lot yes ?
Click to expand...
won't beat it
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
Furniss said:
Wacker is due a service - last year local parts suppliers recommended womac e11 10-40 and iirc it was stupidly priced so much so i wouldn't want to use it in all the kit.
need some more so might order 40l of
Shell Rimula R4 10-40 seems cheaper and would do the lot yes ?
Click to expand...
Our entire test fleet runs 10w-30, coincidentally so does my Kubota and lawn mower.
 
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