Storrsy
Well-known member
Just a quick one- how does one go about locking a hydraulic hitch if you can’t actually curl the attachment in to lock it? Think a post knocker for example. I can’t curl it in until it’s locked so catch 22!
Both of mine curl in to unlock, and are locked by default?Just a quick one- how does one go about locking a hydraulic hitch if you can’t actually curl the attachment in to lock it? Think a post knocker for example. I can’t curl it in until it’s locked so catch 22!
Depending how its piped any service might create pressure to close it.As soon as you flick the lock switch the hitch should start to close. It might only creep closed and need the bucket curled to lock it on properly
This is how mine work and I have no problems using the post knocker. On one of them I have to touch the dipper with the bottom of the post knocker to generate pressure to open the hitch, but I chamfered the end to match and it doesn't bother me.Depending how its piped any service might create pressure to close it.
True, and old trick is to press the track petals just ever so slightly to stroke the pumps up! Although I'm seeing alot of hitches being piped up now with the bucket line providing pressure.Depending how its piped any service might create pressure to close it.
Plus Miller take about 4 months to sort it out then wash there hands of it and leave you to itI’ve found the opposite on Miller type quick hitches. You can pick up big attachments okay, but the cab gets in the way when you need to curl it round to release the locking bar.
Much better to have an S type hitch which doesn’t require curling either way.
Had this problem when I put the flail on the too hitch which requires you to put pressure into the dipper circuit to release.. it Fowled the boom, had to unbolt it and then cut a chunk out of the headstock so I could fully curl it up! And no I wasn’t going to just hit it against the dipper!!I’ve found the opposite on Miller type quick hitches. You can pick up big attachments okay, but the cab gets in the way when you need to curl it round to release the locking bar.
Much better to have an S type hitch which doesn’t require curling either way.
Had this problem when I put the flail on the too hitch which requires you to put pressure into the dipper circuit to release.. it Fowled the boom, had to unbolt it and then cut a chunk out of the headstock so I could fully curl it up! And no I wasn’t going to just hit it against the dipper!!
Would of just bent the flail tbh, takes a good few seconds of full curl, won’t even disengage on tickover!If it's pressure rather than a position sensor like the old ones can't you just put the flail flat on the floor or is the leverage not enough to avoid picking the machine up
when you find a source - let me know @Keif .... not easy things to acquireIf someone wanted make their own hyd. quick hitch where would you go about finding small enough cylinders? I'm not having any luck.
Is it an Engcon QH? Mine is a bastard to get open…Would of just bent the flail tbh, takes a good few seconds of full curl, won’t even disengage on tickover!
or a strategically placed pinA gieth hitch will unlock if you press the overide button untill it beeps then pressurising any circuit will release the hitch.
My Strickland s lock will release in any position by pressurrising the blade circuit with the hitch unlocked and the same for locking
Most s type hitches will unlock with pressing a button on the sticks and it's a dead handy setup
The ones you really foul on are the ones with a pendulum for sensing which way up the hitch is though often they can be fooled with a well placed bungie cord
The 0:41 mark of the below video is exactly what I need. I suspect this man made his own and I might have to do the same.when you find a source - let me know @Keif .... not easy things to acquire