JCB 8085 - giving me the run around and identifying useless repair firms.

jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
Hi folks,

Think a bit of a rant to start off with as I'm that annoyed with local specialist repair firms. I'm currently trying to troubleshoot a smoking Isuzu 4LE2 engine in a 2012 JCB 8085ECO, at first I sent the injectors away for refurbishment as the chap had a run of dodgy fuel and the machine was down on power and smoking (blue) from memory? The problem has been ongoing since just before covid. Ended up with refurbished injectors, the machine started on the button and ran well apart from black smoking, worse under load or using the hydraulics. Engine runs nice and smooth no missing or oil burn, tracking along ends up with a column of black smoke out the exhaust, engine rpm makes no difference. Maybe just more smoke with more rpm? Spoke to the diesel repair firm and they advised to remove pumps and inspect. Apparently they were amazed the machine ran with the fuel pumps like they were. So they would source the parts and repair. The firm couldn't source the parts though as Bosch didn't have any on the shelf and covid had halted production. Fast forward 18 months/2yrs I've still got this digger in my yard and no pumps due to parts supply. Having tried to source new parts myself I gave up and looked for new pumps. Only three sources: JCB (only had one and needed four @ £1600 each), Alibaba (£450 but questionable quality) and Genuine Isuzu (£1800 each), so contacted a mate who sales diesel engines and parts, very good at his job, found me 4 new genuine pumps from Isuzu abroad, shipped them to me for £590 each, still expensive but worth it to cure the fault. Got the diesel shop to check the injectors again to make sure spray pattern correct and re-installed the injectors and pumps, changed all filters again and renewed all the fuel lines. Checked lift pump was working and the correct shims were replaced in same locations for the pumps to set the timing. Guess what, over £2400 later and the digger is no better. Hell I'm mad! All I want is for people to tell me if something is actually broken not just replace stuff because it brings them business. Next I check boost pressure with an adapter on the inlet manifold as I suspected the turbo wasn't provding boost, it was but maybe slightly lower than I'd expect (8-9psi), manual states apprximately 10psi. So removed turbo and only issue I could find was maybe a slightly tight impeller, but no movement or damage to the vanes. Just didn't freewheel like im used to. No end float or wobble to indicate wear. Took it off and sent to a local turbo rebuild specialist. They identified it had been leaking oil in the past and carboned up the piston ring seal and that was my issue. The core needed replacing and they could do it for £350 plus Vat, so I asked to confirm would that cause the impeller to be tighter than im used to or is that normal for that particular turbo. They said yes carbon buildup could affect the running of the turbo. I collected the new part days later to find the impeller to take the same effort to turn, a bit worried I refit the turbo in the hope the fault is cured guess what. Nope identical to before only now I have another unnecessary part. Why can't people just be honest and say I can't find anything significant here that could cause the symptoms you describe? Starting to think I should start learning about diesel systems and turbos myself to make it another job I dont sub out. I like to do things right, once rather than chase round the houses but I don't know diesel pumps and turbos intricately so rely on other expertise.

Hopefully one of you guys has any idea what the issue may be, here is what I've checked so far.

EGR valve operation, blanked off to prove its not adding exhaust gases and check solenoid is operating under correct parameters.

Compression check, tested all four cylinders against manufacturers specs, new spec 401psi. Spec on ours 400psi on every cylinder.

Turbo boost pressure at the intake manifold, 8 psi under load.

Air filter restriction, all intake pipework checked for collapsed plugged hoses, bypassed the intercooler also checked flow through the intercooler all fine. Checked exhaust side too, had the exhaust box removed just incase junk was plugging the exhaust system. No change.

Like I mentioned earlier fuel system has been gone through, all new lines and filters lift pump changed not longer before the injectors and still providing good pressure.

Things left still to check....

Spill time the injection pumps, not done sooner as the other pumps appeared to be original and the timing I'm fairly sure is set by the shims used under the pump to alter contact height in relation to camshaft driving the pumps. I'm leaning towards the timing being advanced? Hence the black smoke, but it starts really well and no diesel knock from advanced timing.

Valve stem seals, although no blow by in crankcase or blue smoke?

Valve timing or valve lash, but will check that next I think, but doesn't fit the symptoms in my eyes? Not like the engine has been messed with when replacing injectors, not ruling out that the digger hasn't been messed with previous to this persons ownership. Although everything looks untouched.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm thousands into this job along with lots of time, both waiting for parts/diagnostics and no nearer to curing the fault. Anybody have any ideas before I take a match to the dam thing. 😅

Thanks in advance,
Matt
 
jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
Have you checked the Shims? (Without going back and reading) for wear/tolerances etc?
Measured the thickness as they all have to be the same but haven't spill timed to verify the shims are the correct thickness. Means rear counterweight off, radiator off to get good access to the crank pulley to see tdc and 2 deg before tdc markings. Then manual says take the pump on cylinder 1 to bits and remove the check valve then rotate engine over with electric lift pump going and turn till fuel stops flowing to show the timing then use shims to adjust timing accordingly. I've been hesitant to do this as I don't want to get dirt or debris in the brand new pumps, but thinking this may be my only option?
 
jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
You say you’ve checked hoses etc, would It be worth smoke testing them?

Yeah I don't see why not, I'd have possibly expected to hear a boost leak if that's your current thought process and the pipes do go firm when running as if there is boost pressure?
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
Anything happen just before this issue started? Any work done on the engine? Daft one, but is there a clogged inline filter or suction strainer?
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
The shims do alter the timing slightly. I know on the Volvo/deutz engines the new pump has a scribbed number on the body which dictates which thickness of shim to use. Its been a while since i did one, but i know it is recommended each shim is measured to the pump.
 
jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
Wastegate on turbo holding ?
Hole in intercooler leaking boost pressure?
No wastegate fitted, don’t think there is a boost leak, no whistle and hoses are fairly short and intercooler in good condition. All been checked too for cracks or perishing they are silicone hoses in really good condition.
Anything happen just before this issue started? Any work done on the engine? Daft one, but is there a clogged inline filter or suction strainer?
No, it’s been low on power since he’s had it I think? It’s that long ago it’s hard to remember what events lead up to changing the injectors all I do remember is that once changed it started and ran well apart from the smoke whereas before it failed it ran blue smoke and struggled for power. Now we have black smoke and no power loss. The injectors are the only thing that has made any change/improvement. No inline filter and plenty of pressure/flow from the lift pump. All new hoses and filters.

The shims do alter the timing slightly. I know on the Volvo/deutz engines the new pump has a scribbed number on the body which dictates which thickness of shim to use. It’s been a while since i did one, but i know it is recommended each shim is measured to the pump.
Yeah think spill time is the next process then I can guarantee the timing on the new pumps. The manual says use the same size shims for all four injection pumps. I suppose they could have crushed over time and altered the timing? Have to go a fair size smaller to alter a degree…
 
jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
Are the new injectors definitely right?
This is what I'm thinking is the issue, they were the originals refurbished. I'm wondering if the wrong nozzles have been fitted. Diesel shop has had them back for testing but when asked they said fine and couldn't remember if they were the correct nozzles have found a spec in the manual so think im gonna remove them and check. The whole jobs got me stumped, I've not been beat before, but this is coming close. So difficult when you don't know if the parts you are getting back namely the injectors which started the whole saga are indeed correct...
 
Canal Navvy

Canal Navvy

Well-known member
Had a tractor once that smoked heavily after a rebuilt pump, that was caused by being set to the data plate. Turned out that it had always had the wrong pump on but reset for correct fuel delivery 🤔😅
 
jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
I’ve got a few of these 4LE2 engines in some chippers (non-turbo though). If you can find out if the injectors are the same I could whip a known working set out for you to try.
That's a very kind offer, gonna check the spill timing and remove the injectors and see if the nozzles have the size markings on first, then I might give you a shout. I can get new units for £145 each, wondering if I should just have bitten the bullet and bought some?
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
That's a very kind offer, gonna check the spill timing and remove the injectors and see if the nozzles have the size markings on first, then I might give you a shout. I can get new units for £145 each, wondering if I should just have bitten the bullet and bought some?
I certainly wouldn’t have bothered getting them reconditioned if they can be had new for that.
 
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