Underfloor Heating (Wet)

M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
I am going to install some ufh in a couple of rooms at home next week - is there any reason why I shouldn’t use the JG Speedfit system? Are there others that are as good that are better value?
The JG system looks well thought out and very simple to install (and I’ve heard of it!).
Any tips or tricks that might help before I cock the job right up?!….
 
S

Smiffy

Well-known member
I think mine came from here but was 5 years ago


I did mine with the panels that the pipe is recessed into. Dead easy to install the pipe work and the plumber connected the manifold and pumps up when he did the boiler.
Ours hasn't got the thermal mass as I didn't want to dig the floor out and couldn't afford to lose head height so has a heat pattern like radiators rather than the constant low heat of normal underfloor heating
 
pettsy

pettsy

Well-known member
I’ve done 4 systems from ukunderfloorheating in Sheffield. In my last house I did a nuheat system which was very well specced but not sure wether the extra cost was justified once it was in.

What floor spec do you have, are you laying onto pir insulation or an overlay setup?

What form of heating system are you connecting it into?
 
Routy56

Routy56

Well-known member
I installed a 20m2 JG system kit in 2010 in our conservatory. And it's still going strong.
Was installed and clipped to the Celotex then screeded over with 75mm of floor screed.
Then Travertine floor tiles laid on top.
Standalone system that draws from the main CH as required.
Nice and toasty in the winter :cool:
 
Last edited:
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
I’ve done 4 systems from ukunderfloorheating in Sheffield. In my last house I did a nuheat system which was very well specced but not sure wether the extra cost was justified once it was in.

What floor spec do you have, are you laying onto pir insulation or an overlay setup?

What form of heating system are you connecting it into?
It’s approx 65m2 as one open ‘room’ but will be laid as 4 loops (and possibly 2 thermostats/zones) - 150mm insulation that I intend to clip the pipes to with a 50mm screed. Will be plumbed into the oil central heating boiler - I’m not sure how to control it though (currently have hot water and central heating, would this be a third separate ‘demand’ of the boiler?).
 
pettsy

pettsy

Well-known member
Ok, so will be an extra “zone” on your boiler using a 2 port motorised valve on the flow. I’ve generally used heat miser programmable thermostats, either wired or wireless that connect to the control box, all that goes to the boiler is a switched live to tell it to run.

Once you’ve laid the pir you need to add an another membrane layer as the screed attacks the insulation. I prefer using tracks on the main runs then staples on the ends of the loops.

Are you only ever intending on doing the 2 rooms, or will you do more down the line, as you can have a larger manifold and blank them off till needed.
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
Ok, so will be an extra “zone” on your boiler using a 2 port motorised valve on the flow. I’ve generally used heat miser programmable thermostats, either wired or wireless that connect to the control box, all that goes to the boiler is a switched live to tell it to run.

Once you’ve laid the pir you need to add an another membrane layer as the screed attacks the insulation. I prefer using tracks on the main runs then staples on the ends of the loops.

Are you only ever intending on doing the 2 rooms, or will you do more down the line, as you can have a larger manifold and blank them off till needed.
Yeah, likely to only be the two rooms but I’ll probably get a manifold with at least one extra pair of ports in case we do a bathroom.
What is the benefit of the tracks? Easier to lay?
 
B

bobthebuilder

Well-known member
I never bother with kits ,buy 200m or 500m rolls of pipe ,manifold with pump set ,plenty of clips ,I like the clip rail also as it's easy to keep straight and work your ins and outs ,try you best to keep pipe lengths the same ish ,not hard to do
Fill it and pump it up to a good pressure before screed
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
I could

Could Ask our plumber if he's interested or got time to run through it with you. He's good. Ring me me tomorrow if you want
Cheers Dylan - I’ve got a couple of plumber mates and will use the one who installed the boiler to actually link this in and get everything talking to each other. The actual install seems to be dead easy if you are methodical and I’m more than happy sorting that myself and mounting/bleeding the manifold etc.
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
I never bother with kits ,buy 200m or 500m rolls of pipe ,manifold with pump set ,plenty of clips ,I like the clip rail also as it's easy to keep straight and work your ins and outs ,try you best to keep pipe lengths the same ish ,not hard to do
Fill it and pump it up to a good pressure before screed
That’s my intention - just buy 400m of pipe and the other bits to suit. Just interested in whether the JG Speedfit stuff is good/worth its money compared to other brands? They have plenty of info online and the manifolds look well thought-out.
 
T whiting

T whiting

Well-known member
Stay away from the egg box style ones the pipes want the pop out while your laying the screed tracks and clips are best I like putting flat visqueen on top of the insulation it gives something for the clips to bite into and doesn't bunch up like thin plastic
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
Tracks and clips defo the best way . We find it better to actually mount your manifold before you start laying pipe and then connect each zone up as you start the pipe run and return the run . Helps avoid the plumber mixing them up once the screeds poured and he can’t see where they go
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