Stihl chainsaw bar oiling

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weirdfish

Active member
Didn’t want to add this on to my other thread, so here goes another question.
I noticed that the bar isn’t getting oiled, ( if it is it’s not much ), so my question is, which orifice, ( hole ), should the oil be coming from, I’ve added a photo and marked the 2 places that I believe it should come from.
No 1 does produce oil but I can’t see how that can get onto the bar.
No 2 is where I thought the oil should come from as there’s a little hole in the bar that would allow this to lubricate, unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be coming from hole no 2.
I’ve checked the oil pump is connected ok behind the drive mech. All seems ok.
 

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charlie2

Well-known member
number 2 is where the chain oil comes from some saws have a poor oiling system what model is that some use a plasstic worm wheel to drive the pump and the wheel wears so hardly any oiling, and check the oil hole in the bar suits the hole on the saw.its possible to get the whole oiling kit for around a tenner on ebay i have done that and it worked ok.
 
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doobin

doobin

Well-known member
The ms170 is renowned for the oiler failing.

I would honestly just put it on marketplace for £100 and buy a new ms181 or husky 135. Not tried the 135mk2 but my 135 is a better saw (more power less vibes) for less money than my ms 181.

You can’t go wrong at this money!

 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
A habit I picked up years ago, is to warm the saw at mid-revs (no load) while pointing the bar at a tree trunk, fence or what ever is available.
1. A cold 2st running heavy load will oil the plug very quickly
2. by the time there is some heat in the engine, the chain should be flicking off a visible amount of oil, staining whatever you are pointing at.

Seeing the oil stain tells you the pump is working and the bar/chain are well lubed. It also helps to clear any debris in the bar slot.
No matter how expencive the saw, what the brand etc, pumps do fail, lines and ports get blocked - better to know before a cut than after.
 
Lancs Lad

Lancs Lad

Well-known member
The ms170 is renowned for the oiler failing.

I would honestly just put it on marketplace for £100 and buy a new ms181 or husky 135. Not tried the 135mk2 but my 135 is a better saw (more power less vibes) for less money than my ms 181.

You can’t go wrong at this money!

Plus 1👍🏼
 
W

weirdfish

Active member
A habit I picked up years ago, is to warm the saw at mid-revs (no load) while pointing the bar at a tree trunk, fence or what ever is available.
1. A cold 2st running heavy load will oil the plug very quickly
2. by the time there is some heat in the engine, the chain should be flicking off a visible amount of oil, staining whatever you are pointing at.

Seeing the oil stain tells you the pump is working and the bar/chain are well lubed. It also helps to clear any debris in the bar slot.
No matter how expencive the saw, what the brand etc, pumps do fail, lines and ports get blocked - better to know before a cut than after.
Definitely no oil being flicked, bar is dry.
 
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weirdfish

Active member
Plus 1👍🏼
The ms170 is renowned for the oiler failing.

I would honestly just put it on marketplace for £100 and buy a new ms181 or husky 135. Not tried the 135mk2 but my 135 is a better saw (more power less vibes) for less money than my ms 181.

You can’t go wrong at this money!

I’m really tempted to just sell up and try the husky, but I’d have to make sure the stihl is working properly before selling, I’ve made sure the drive for the oil pump is ok but haven’t checked any further yet, that’s the next job, I’ve also had an air line down the oil hole so hopefully it’s clear.
 
Lancs Lad

Lancs Lad

Well-known member
Nope...honestly stick it on eBay as a bit iffy you'll be surprised at what you get...

I stuck an early 550mk1 on eBay ...wasn't well at all needed pot and piston etc etc...auction ended at £250!
 
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
The ms170 is renowned for the oiler failing.

I would honestly just put it on marketplace for £100 and buy a new ms181 or husky 135. Not tried the 135mk2 but my 135 is a better saw (more power less vibes) for less money than my ms 181.

You can’t go wrong at this money!

Yeah sounds like need to get rid
 
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charlie2

Well-known member
The ms170 is renowned for the oiler failing.

I would honestly just put it on marketplace for £100 and buy a new ms181 or husky 135. Not tried the 135mk2 but my 135 is a better saw (more power less vibes) for less money than my ms 181.

You can’t go wrong at this money!

i have a 135 great little saw for the money much better than the budget stihl model.
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
The ms170 is renowned for the oiler failing.

I would honestly just put it on marketplace for £100 and buy a new ms181 or husky 135. Not tried the 135mk2 but my 135 is a better saw (more power less vibes) for less money than my ms 181.

You can’t go wrong at this money!

I have a ms181, decent wee saw, though i do like the look of that husky 135.

Whats the biggest bar you could get away with on an ms181?
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
Lancs Lad

Lancs Lad

Well-known member
What is fitted as standard in UK?
Both the MS 180 and MS181 are sold with 16" in Oz

Point is it's a 30cc homeowner saw...
I only run a 15" on 550mk2 which is a 50cc pro saw..for comparison.
We could start talking micro chain etc but it's rapidly getting out of hand 🤣 maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree or just chipped
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
I get your point - to me, more teeth means longer between sharpening rather than "bigger bar = bigger log".
(I've got a bigger saw (3x power) for bigger logs)
 
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Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
Point is it's a 30cc homeowner saw...
I only run a 15" on 550mk2 which is a 50cc pro saw..for comparison.
We could start talking micro chain etc but it's rapidly getting out of hand 🤣 maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree or just chipped
@Regy53 - please close this thread, this is the start of a very slippery slope towards the downfall of this forum…
 
W

weirdfish

Active member
Right, before it gets sold can anyone confirm which way around the oil pump fits.
There’s a groove in the pump body and I’ve positioned this towards the rear, it looks like there’s a diagram on the bottom of the crankcase showing this.
As you can guess, still no oil😡😡🙈
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
Right, before it gets sold can anyone confirm which way around the oil pump fits.
There’s a groove in the pump body and I’ve positioned this towards the rear, it looks like there’s a diagram on the bottom of the crankcase showing this.
As you can guess, still no oil😡😡🙈
Is the tank pickup hose clear?
 
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