Ivor Williams 3.5t

diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
Just bought this off my mate. Any good? Are the wheels right.
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doobin

doobin

Well-known member
Hope you didn't pay too much for it, it needs a lot of work.
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
£700
The floor is knackered but everything is not bad. How do you get the hub off.
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
£700 leaves you enough to replace other stuff so that you know it's all good. Just use a large flat screwdriver to pop the hub cap off and then the nut will be underneath.
 
Grahams

Grahams

Don't complain - suggest what's better
Re reversing - back in the day you used to be able to lock out the over run brakes to make it easier backing up. Looks like that is what the lever is for. Haven't seen one in maybe 30 years so my memory is a bit rusty.
 
pettsy

pettsy

Well-known member
Re reversing - back in the day you used to be able to lock out the over run brakes to make it easier backing up. Looks like that is what the lever is for. Haven't seen one in maybe 30 years so my memory is a bit rusty.

I think there’s a kit you can fit even to the modern IW trailers. It replaces the “grab handle” on the hitch.
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
£700 leaves you enough to replace other stuff so that you know it's all good. Just use a large flat screwdriver to pop the hub cap off and then the nut will be underneath.
I was going to look at the brakes. They seem to work ok. Amazingly dont think its done much. The springs still have stickers on them and the back plates behind the hubs are mint.
It's not going to be doing alot. Will spend most of its time parked up.
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
We have the same trailer but with the wider rims. I think those wheels are from a flatbed. If you take the hubs off it’s recommended that you fit new hub nuts.
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
We have the same trailer but with the wider rims. I think those wheels are from a flatbed. If you take the hubs off it’s recommended that you fit new hub nuts.
I never have, usually they torque up to the same point where they were peened over before if the original fitter did them up tight enough (assuming not taperlock, that would be a very old Ifor)

Ifor rims have been specced slightly wider from the factory in recent years. When I refurbed a beavertail of similar vintage to diggerjones, I bought a set of the more modern wider rims and tyres as there wasn't a lot in it over just getting new tyres fitted. It came out nice. Bought for £900, owed us £1700 after an overhaul but was as good as new. Went halves on it with a mate and it took us around six hours to refurb including a nice box full of straps. £1700 on eBay would get you a right nail, theres no such thing as a second hand trailer t hat doesn't need work! Buy cheap and budget to do EVERYTHING.
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Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
I wouldn’t bother on my own trailer, don’t do enough miles. That’s the recommendation though, as the peening can fail second time round.
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
I wouldn’t bother on my own trailer, don’t do enough miles. That’s the recommendation though, as the peening can fail second time round.
Same as John Deere trying to sell me a new set of nuts (£15!) every time I buy new blades for the ride on :ROFLMAO:

I take your point, but everything can fail if not done right. If you want to be tight AND double safe, then swap nuts around so the peening is at a different location and metal fatigue not an issue. There's no forces acting upon them to bend the peening back the other way out of the groove, and it doesn't take much at all to stop the nut coming loose.
 
pettsy

pettsy

Well-known member
Thought about chopping in my beavertail for a new one, but will probably refurb what I have as the new beavertails are different I’m told?
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
I never have, usually they torque up to the same point where they were peened over before if the original fitter did them up tight enough (assuming not taperlock, that would be a very old Ifor)

Ifor rims have been specced slightly wider from the factory in recent years. When I refurbed a beavertail of similar vintage to diggerjones, I bought a set of the more modern wider rims and tyres as there wasn't a lot in it over just getting new tyres fitted. It came out nice. Bought for £900, owed us £1700 after an overhaul but was as good as new. Went halves on it with a mate and it took us around six hours to refurb including a nice box full of straps. £1700 on eBay would get you a right nail, theres no such thing as a second hand trailer t hat doesn't need work! Buy cheap and budget to do EVERYTHING.View attachment 25285
Agree 100% with last line here. The way second hand prices are you've got to buy very cheap to see any benefit once you've spent the money making a trailer right.
Looking at some of the second hand prices the new prices must have gone up a lot from when i last bought a trailer.
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
We have the same trailer but with the wider rims. I think those wheels are from a flatbed. If you take the hubs off it’s recommended that you fit new hub nuts.
Looking at the arch clearance I'm not sure that trailer is on its original wheels.
 
Danny

Danny

Well-known member
Looking at the arch clearance I'm not sure that trailer is on its original wheels.

If you ring/email ifor give them the serial number im sure they can tell you everything about it.

Ref tyres / wheels if there not rated for that trailer and you get pulled could be a can of worms (y)
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
that 'lever' is a reversing lock out latch to prevent the brakes activating when pushing the trailer backwards ... won't be auto reversing set up on there ... have to get out and set it before reversing and as soon as you move forward it should click out on its own ..... PITA shunting TBH .... Bradleys used to have a swing over spacer between the coupling and the body which stayed put 'til you removed it again (as long as you remembered :rolleyes:) that's a very old coupling set up ... looks a strong trailer though

slide back and down ... should click into place - as you come forward it gets lifted back out and up
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