3CX JCB 1997 Maintenance questions

G

Gecko

Well-known member
Hi All
As per my introduction thread, I've just taken delivery of my first JCB, or more correctly, a mate just took delivery for me as I'm out of the country.
It was quite cheap, so I expected a 'greater than usual' number of maintenance items to attend to and it seems I won't be disappointed.
In summery, it's 4wd, synchroshuttle box, 4in1 and extender hoe (serial: 450000 range)

My first question is about seals. One stabilizer leg is said to produce oil at a rate that'd make a Texan blush.
Does everyone stick to OEM seals, or are the indian(/other) substitutes just as good?

Second question: Is there a parts list available? (preferably PDF)
(Looking at parts.jcb.com, it asks me for my serial number, but then offers parts for every possible configuration)

I'll work my way through fluids and filters
The sort of things that are slowing me down are filters. JCB's site suggests five filters that may be suitable for the SyncroShuttle:
581/M8563
581/M5863S
581/R2034
32/915500S (noted as 120 long High Pressure)
02/100284A (noted as: Short)
Obviously I'd prefer the largest filter that'll fit, but I'm not sure if there are any trade-offs (eg. bypass pressure or particle size)

Now the manual does mention 10um running-in and 25um service filters for the hydraulics, but no indication which is which.
 
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Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
Working through as far as I can, with the effort involved in stripping the leg cylinder, do you really want to do it again next year because you’ve skinned a fart for fourpence? Couldn’t tell you which filter is which, but JCB will be able to answer that one. Finally The bi-pass is in the head, not the filter. You’d best get into the dealers and speak to an older fitter.
 
Mintsauce

Mintsauce

Active member
If you're going in to your local Jcb dealer they may be helpful enough to email you any relevant pages from their parts book for that model/serial number if it's them supplying the parts. . As Bri says I think I would get genuine where you need to rely on it.
 
G

Gecko

Well-known member
Hi Bri963, thanks for your reply. I understand completely what you are saying, but I was really asking "is there a difference"? As I live Down Under, parts availability isn't what it is in the UK. Getting a part delivered from india is often quicker (and a lot cheaper) than delivery interstate. If the seals aren't significantly different (or possibly the same part),then it at least gives me some more options.

Just taking the first filter in the list as an example - Donalson list their P551756 as an equivalent to the 581/M8563. The Donalson filter has a bypass pressure relief of 7~10psi.
The workshop manual does not show a filter relief valve in the SynchroShuttle box
Perhaps you are thinking of the engine filter?
 
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G

Gecko

Well-known member
As Bri says I think I would get genuine where you need to rely on it.
Hi Mintsauce, "local" is a relative term! The nearest JCB dealer is 300km from the machine. On the plus side, they have 80 seal kits in stock and their price (pickup) is about the same as the indian kit (delivered).

When I was working on old land rovers, it was not unusual for the non-oem part to be superior to the original.
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
. I think you’ll find genuine in this case is worth the wait and expense. You’re right, I was thinking of the engine oil filter. Hadn’t read your first post properly.
 
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G

Gecko

Well-known member
Second question: Is there a parts list available? (preferably PDF)
(Looking at parts.jcb.com, it asks me for my serial number, but then offers parts for every possible configuration)
Scrub that.
I found a paper copy (9800/9701) and it was delivered this morning - I have to say it's most disappointing Parts Book I've seen.
The exploded diagrams are great (same as the parts website),but no description at all or part numbers.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
if this uploads it'll be a miracle :cry:

nope :mad:

"jcb_3cx-4cx_backhoe-loader_workshop-manual_sn290000-400000_sec_wat.pdf
The file is too large to be uploaded."

PM me an email addy and I'll try and send it to you ... or try looking on Remanual .. I put it on there a while ago and it's also in Maskinisten's manual sections ;)
 
G

Gecko

Well-known member
Thanks for the offer. I've got a passable copy of the workshop manual (9803/3260 - sn400k-460k (if anyone needs it, drop me a PM)).
Now it's only the Operators Handbook I'm missing (9801/5350) - If any one has a copy of that (hint, hint!) it may save me a few "beginner's" mistakes.
 
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G

Gecko

Well-known member
I'm still weeks away from getting near this machine, but I've been studying the manual and have the next question:

The first job will be the stabiliser ram.
Any hints getting two seals into the end cap? (preferably without damaging them)

1565192684155.png
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
Leave them in boiling water for a few minutes, so they are nice and supple. Just be careful if your using an ‘instrument’ to fit them, make sure there are no sharp edges etc.

Take note of the locking pin in the rod nut, I’m sure there’s been many a swearing contest, not to mention blood, sweat and tears, trying to undo that nut without first removing the pin! :ROFLMAO:
 
G

Gecko

Well-known member
Thanks - will do.

I'd come across a reference to the hidden dowel and how hard it is to remove the piston when the dowel is still in place!!
Your note is well taken.
 
G

Gecko

Well-known member
Thanks to Adam, I've got the filter numbers sorted out
(for the record, the correct trans. filter is the last on my list)

Haven't managed to track down an Operators Manual yet (remanual.org seems to be offline)
Still haven't managed to get to the right continent to start work though!
 
G

Gecko

Well-known member
Met the machine for the first time today!

This is what the Oz sun does to plastic
1568990054714.png


edit: On the plus side, we don't have salt on the roads
 
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G

Gecko

Well-known member
So - having exposed the machine from under a thick coating of grease, mud (and general lack of maintenance),some unexpected things have come to light:

- The Turbo has been found! The seller assured me it was a non-turbo model. The ID plate showed the engine 'should' have been an AB block leaving me with the assumption the engine had been swapped at some stage.

- I was assured it was fitted with a half hitch. Imagine my surprise when the high pressure cleaner exposed a hydraulic quick hitch. Unfortunately, there is no plumbing, so swapping buckets will be interesting.

- I expected the wear strips for the ExtraDig to need replacing. I wasn't expecting them to be absent!
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
.......- I was assured it was fitted with a half hitch. Imagine my surprise when the high pressure cleaner exposed a hydraulic quick hitch. Unfortunately, there is no plumbing, so swapping buckets will be interesting.

- I expected the wear strips for the ExtraDig to need replacing. I wasn't expecting them to be absent!
keeping them on there could be equally interesting :unsure: ...... wouldn't take a lot of plumbing up though
 
G

Gecko

Well-known member
Good point. I assumed it would latch when closed - I will check carefully..
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Good point. I assumed it would latch when closed - I will check carefully..
unless it's a really modern hitch, with spring loading, to keep it attached in the event of pressure loss, it'll be reliant on continuous hydraulic pressure to maintain a grip. The check valve will maintain pressure for a limited time, but it's inevitable that pressure will eventually be lost.:rolleyes:
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Good point. I assumed it would latch when closed - I will check carefully..
cheap enough hitch valve .... all you'd need'd be a switch and some 6 mm plumbing

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Excavato...155308?hash=item4d9c7156ec:g:7fcAAOSwj8VcljyN

1569256195878.png


there's also this one - even cheaper ... but no relief in the block to cater for the fact it spends most of its time dead ended, so technically not a QH valve ... more a two way ....:rolleyes: ......... and it's 24 volt :(
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYDRAULIC-QUICK-HITCH-VALVE-24VDC-20L-MIN-250-BAR/163103706027

1569256788687.png


first one is a real bargain TBH (y)(y):cool: .... says used / not new, but doesn't look like it's ever seen action :rolleyes: .....
very tempted myself for stock, TBH, if you aren't. .... I'd stick a hyd QH on JakieB if I tripped over one ... the spring latch is better than now't, but can't beat a hitch on a switch :giggle::giggle:
 
G

Gecko

Well-known member
Thanks. If you want it, it's yours. I'll get to the hitch in time, but for now I'm keeping busy.

I've pressure tested the cooling system and found the jubilee clip below the overflow tank to be loose (leaking) and a gasket behind the water pump is weeping.
I pressure tested the radiator cap to see if it would hold pressure - it didn't!
I've changed the engine oil and filter (messy, but straight forward). The stated engine capacity is 10l. I drained 12l plus the filter.
The sedimentor needed a good scrub and I've replaced the fuel filter.
Now I'm trying (unsuccessfully) to bleed the fuel system. It seems the lift pump isn't delivering any fuel at all.

I'm missing the safety prop, so all this has to be been done with the shovel on the ground (not ideal).

The quickhitch seems to have a safety pin that blocks the grab and prevents an unintended dismount.
 
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